Glavni meni

Honda CBR 1000 RR SP

Započeo Gligoric, 24 Maj, 2015, 19:53

0 članova i 1 gost pregledaju ovu temu.

kosta92

Stvarno lepa, cestitam na prinovi !! :P cekamo utiske !! :D
Sam biras kako zivis ! :)

DraganPavlicevic

Zavidim ti;sretna ti bila i lepo da te slu¾i.

clutch&brake

STA ZRACIS TO I PRIVLACIS!!!

MIGE


Balsa Wrx

- Motori ne ispu¹taju ulje, oni obilje¾avaju teritoriju.

Veske

Opasan motor,sa srecom!  [cheers]

Gligoric

Hvala na cestitkama,ko hoce moze da svrati pa da zajedno  :drka: 
Danas presao prvih 100 km u komadu,nekako se ne oseca tezina koju pise da ima,privikavam se jos uvek i najteze mi pada da vozim do 6000 rpm.
Malo mi se cinila tvrda pozadi pa sam okrenuo dva klika ka -   
U principu cekamo da to jos legne na svoje :)


Mik

#27
Citat: Gligoric poslato 25 Maj, 2015, 21:35

... najteze mi pada da vozim do 6000 rpm.



Ko je tebi rekao da se razrada odradjuje do 6000 rpm?

Prvo se ostavi da se zagreje u mestu. Prvih nekoliko kilometara se vozi lagano, bez kacige, sa osluskivanjem - ako motor fabricki nije dobar (sto je krajnje retko ali moze da se desi) on ce to pokazati u tin nekoliko kilometara. Onda u obrtaje, ne preterano, ali bar 1000-2000rpm vise nego sto pise u uputstvu (kratkotrajno) - jer treba "gomila" ulja da rashladi proces razrade a ulje ce obezbediti obrtaji. Potreban je "jak" gas da rasiri karike, a veliki gas se ne daje bez ulja, tj obrtaja (cak ni na razradjenom motoru). Pa onda naizmenicno gas/otpustanje gasa (potpuno), pa tako 50km. Broj obrtaja treba stalno da se menja, naizmenicno gas (to lagano, na osecaj) i oduzimanje gasa (to naglo i potpuno). Pa ostavis da se ohladi, jer postoji i termicka razrada motora. Pa opet (sutra) 50km na isti nacin. Posle mozes i u neki kraci turizam do prve zamene ulja, posle 100km je sve "leglo", najbitniji su prvih 30km.

(Eto sad si zasro, a sto nisi pito?  :))

Sretno, lepo da se navozas!

(Nego mi nije jasno odakle kilometraza na 0.0 kad ga oni istestiraju u fabrici?  [neampojma])

mkt

lep bajk, da se lepo navozas

Gligoric

Citat: Mik poslato 26 Maj, 2015, 00:12
Citat: Gligoric poslato 25 Maj, 2015, 21:35

... najteze mi pada da vozim do 6000 rpm.



Ko je tebi rekao da se razrada odradjuje do 6000 rpm?

Prvo se ostavi da se zagreje u mestu. Prvih nekoliko kilometara se vozi lagano, bez kacige, sa osluskivanjem - ako motor fabricki nije dobar (sto je krajnje retko ali moze da se desi) on ce to pokazati u tin nekoliko kilometara. Onda u obrtaje, ne preterano, ali bar 1000-2000rpm vise nego sto pise u uputstvu (kratkotrajno) - jer treba "gomila" ulja da rashladi proces razrade a ulje ce obezbediti obrtaji. Potreban je "jak" gas da rasiri karike, a veliki gas se ne daje bez ulja, tj obrtaja (cak ni na razradjenom motoru). Pa onda naizmenicno gas/otpustanje gasa (potpuno), pa tako 50km. Broj obrtaja treba stalno da se menja, naizmenicno gas (to lagano, na osecaj) i oduzimanje gasa (to naglo i potpuno). Pa ostavis da se ohladi, jer postoji i termicka razrada motora. Pa opet (sutra) 50km na isti nacin. Posle mozes i u neki kraci turizam do prve zamene ulja, posle 100km je sve "leglo", najbitniji su prvih 30km.

(Eto sad si zasro, a sto nisi pito?  :))

Sretno, lepo da se navozas!

(Nego mi nije jasno odakle kilometraza na 0.0 kad ga oni istestiraju u fabrici?  [neampojma])
Receno mi je da je vozim lagano prvih hiljadu km,nista specijalno ni pametno nisu naveli..
Da je to toliko komplikovan proces to bi fabrika radila u mesto kupaca kako ne bi stalno dobijala reklamacije,jer ja jos nikoga nisam upoznao ko je ovo radio i na ovaj nacin!

TEEfqd

#30
mototune razrada motora. prati to sto je rekao mik. i ja sam dosta istrazivao o razradi motora pre nego sto sam prvi put seo. najbitnije je da zagrejes motor u mestu, posle toga krenes da vozis, razvuces ga na 2-3 pravca slobodno.
tretiraj gas kao da je on/off dugme u tim prvim kilometrima. nikako konstanti obrtaji, non stop ih menjaj i igraj se sa menjacem. okacicu klip uskoro kako lik razradjuje novog bmw s1000rr, inace trkac

edit, evo ga

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6fKHV4cFTE

freepartyman

 Ne kapiram sto nasi pricaju da ga vozis polako, kada ga onaj japanac zavrne u crveno u fabrici pre nego sto tebi stigne motor.
I became a beast to rid myself the pain of being a man

Gligoric

A zasto onda proizvodjac ne daje takve informacije? Nego mi od proizvodjaca tj prodavca dobijamo informaciju da treba da vozimo motor lagano 1000km?

TEEfqd

Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible. 


The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice,
which is why more engines don't have this problem !!

It's up to you:
The loss in power from an easy break-in and the resulting poor ring seal can be
anywhere from 2% - 10% !!

In other words:
The gain in power from using this break-in method can be anywhere from 2% - 10% !!


ukratko


a odgovor na tvoje pitanje Gligoricu je da bi zastitili sebe u slucaju fabricke greske na motoru. jer ti kupujes nov motor, oni ti kazu ne zavrci odma, jer ako zavrces a motor ima neki problem...

Gligoric

Citat: redshadow poslato 26 Maj, 2015, 13:58
mototune razrada motora. prati to sto je rekao mik. i ja sam dosta istrazivao o razradi motora pre nego sto sam prvi put seo. najbitnije je da zagrejes motor u mestu, posle toga krenes da vozis, razvuces ga na 2-3 pravca slobodno.
tretiraj gas kao da je on/off dugme u tim prvim kilometrima. nikako konstanti obrtaji, non stop ih menjaj i igraj se sa menjacem. okacicu klip uskoro kako lik razradjuje novog bmw s1000rr, inace trkac

edit, evo ga

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6fKHV4cFTE
Covek kaze : Pokazace nam kako da pokrenemo motor pre izlaska na trkacku stazu !

TEEfqd

Citat: Gligoric poslato 26 Maj, 2015, 14:24
Citat: redshadow poslato 26 Maj, 2015, 13:58
mototune razrada motora. prati to sto je rekao mik. i ja sam dosta istrazivao o razradi motora pre nego sto sam prvi put seo. najbitnije je da zagrejes motor u mestu, posle toga krenes da vozis, razvuces ga na 2-3 pravca slobodno.
tretiraj gas kao da je on/off dugme u tim prvim kilometrima. nikako konstanti obrtaji, non stop ih menjaj i igraj se sa menjacem. okacicu klip uskoro kako lik razradjuje novog bmw s1000rr, inace trkac

edit, evo ga

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6fKHV4cFTE
Covek kaze : Pokazace nam kako da pokrenemo motor pre izlaska na trkacku stazu !
bas tako. da bi peglao na stazi moras da imas jak i izdrzljiv agregat. to je poenta. a ako vozis na ulici takodje zelis da imas izdrzljiv agregat, zar ne.
sve ovo sto pricam sam ja licno uradio i nemam nikakav problem sa motorom, naprotiv, vuce kao nenormalan, ima zdav zvuk kao nov je i sad

Gligoric

Citat: redshadow poslato 26 Maj, 2015, 14:20
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.  


The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice,
which is why more engines don't have this problem !!

It's up to you:
The loss in power from an easy break-in and the resulting poor ring seal can be
anywhere from 2% - 10% !!

In other words:
The gain in power from using this break-in method can be anywhere from 2% - 10% !!


ukratko


a odgovor na tvoje pitanje Gligoricu je da bi zastitili sebe u slucaju fabricke greske na motoru. jer ti kupujes nov motor, oni ti kazu ne zavrci odma, jer ako zavrces a motor ima neki problem...

Ok ali ukoliko svi mi pogresno razradjujemo motor to znaci da proizvodjac svesno svima nama dozvoljava da njegov proizvod koristimo losije nego sto ga je on napravio..
To mi nekako nema smisla.
Po mom nekom razmisljanju 1000 km je mnogo,ali mi ni nije realno da fabrika prepusti potrosacu da on sam odluci koliko ce taj proizvod biti dobar,a Honda recimo ulozila pola miliona evra da poveca snagu motora za 3 %

Gligoric

Citat: Gligoric poslato 26 Maj, 2015, 14:30
Citat: redshadow poslato 26 Maj, 2015, 14:20
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible. 


The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice,
which is why more engines don't have this problem !!

It's up to you:
The loss in power from an easy break-in and the resulting poor ring seal can be
anywhere from 2% - 10% !!

In other words:
The gain in power from using this break-in method can be anywhere from 2% - 10% !!


ukratko


a odgovor na tvoje pitanje Gligoricu je da bi zastitili sebe u slucaju fabricke greske na motoru. jer ti kupujes nov motor, oni ti kazu ne zavrci odma, jer ako zavrces a motor ima neki problem...

Ok ali ukoliko svi mi pogresno razradjujemo motor to znaci da proizvodjac svesno svima nama dozvoljava da njegov proizvod koristimo losije nego sto ga je on napravio..
To mi nekako nema smisla.
Po mom nekom razmisljanju 1000 km je mnogo,ali mi ni nije realno da fabrika prepusti potrosacu da on sam odluci koliko ce taj proizvod biti dobar,a Honda recimo ulozila pola miliona evra da poveca snagu motora za 3 %

Po tome bi trebalo da znaci da sam ja od mog motora napravio tarabu.
U mom slucaju moj motor je godinu dana bio izlozen u salonu i ko zna sta mu je sve radjeno,tako da verujem da sam ja taj PRAVILNI POCETAK svakako propustio !

UFF

sad si vlasnik 3 tarabe :)

clutch&brake

ma boli te djoka... ako zabode iynerviras se i odes  kupis panigale  [rofl] [rofl] [rofl] [rofl]
STA ZRACIS TO I PRIVLACIS!!!