U osnovnoj skoli i gimnaziji retko kad sam se proslavio na pismenom iz srpskog. Nisam nesto telentovan za pisanje ali cu se potruditi da vam prenesem svoje utiske sa ovog putovanja.
Krajem maja 2011. razmisljao sam o destinaciji koju bi posetio a da se putovanje uklopi u 8 - 10 dana. Nisam bio raspolozen da putujem od mesta do mesta nego sam se odlucio da to bude jedan smestaj odakle se mogu obici zanimljive destinacije. Razmisaljo sam o Rumuniji i procitao dosta putopisa iz iste.
Medjutim nesto mi nije dalo mira pa sam guglajuci po interentu se nagugalo na sledeci sajt http://motorrad.kaernten.at/en.aspx (http://motorrad.kaernten.at/en.aspx) Malo po malo pregledajuci sajt i puteve i predele kojima se prolazi nije mi trebalo mnogo da da se odlucim za Korusku.
Sledilo je trazenje smestaja na povoljnom mestu da se vecina ruta u duzini do 300km mogu izvoziti a da se vidi sto vise ako je moguce. U planiranju ruta mi je pomogla karta koju sam narucio putem sajta i dobio je na kucnu adresu. Pored tog
sajta puno mi je pomogao i katalog sa sajta http://www.kaerntencard.at/carinthia-holiday/destinations-carinthia/destinations.php?navanchor=2110008 (http://www.kaerntencard.at/carinthia-holiday/destinations-carinthia/destinations.php?navanchor=2110008) koji je takodje stigao na kucnu adresu bez ikakvih troskova.
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Smestaj sam nasao preko sajta www.booking.com (http://www.booking.com)
Posto sam sve detaljno isplanirao i rute uneo u navigaciju jos pocetkom jula ostalo je samo da dodje dan za pokret. U medjuvremenu sam odlucio da jedan dan provedem i u Ljubljani.
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DAN I 20.08.2011.
Preskocicu putovanje kroz BIH 19.08. i autoput od Kozarske Dubice do Ljubljane i pocecu putopis od posete Lubljani.
U Ljubljanu (hotel Center) stigli smo u podne te vrele subote. Imao sam dogovor sa TomomB da se cujemo kad signem u Ljubljanu i odemo negde na pice. TomoB me je nazvao negde oko 13 i rekao da dodjem do Ljubljanske pijace gde je on sa Moklom na picu. Vrlo brzo smo se raspakovali istusirali i otisli do pijace. Instrukcije kako doci do pijace nam je dao TomoB. Kretajuci kroz Ljubljanu prema pijaci uocli smo da je Ljubljana miran grad bez mnogo saobracaja, nasta je verovatno uticalo i to sto je subota popodne, prilicno uredan i cist grad.
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Setajuci pored pijace i prateci uputstva koja smo dobili da trazimo dva parkirana mopeda onako sumnjivi sto znatizeljnim pogledom trazimo nesto a nismo sigurni tacno sta najsumnjiviji smo bili Tomi koji nas je primetio. Tomu nisam poznavao licno. Preko foruma smo razmenili nekoliko poruka prethodnih meseci. Ubrzo sedamo u drustvo sa Tomom i Moklom i provodimo sat i nesto sa njima u izuzetno prijatnom razgovoru. Hvala im na svemu sto su nam savetovali a narocito na gostoprimstvu tog dana u Ljubljani.
Posle druzenja sa TomomB i Moklom idemo u obilazak centra Ljubljane i Ljubljanskog grada.
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U Ljubljanskom gradu nailazimo na svadbu. Iz price sa Tomom i Moklom razumeli da se u tom delu Ljubljane odrzavaju vencanja i imali smo priliku da vidimo jednu.
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Ljubljana je ostavila jako prijatan utisak na nas. Lepo uredjen centralni deo oko
Ljubljanice pun raznih ugosteljskih objekata iz kojih se cuje graja gostiju a ne glasna muzika. Nocni zivot je baziran u tom delu Ljubljane na nekoliko ugostiteljskih objekata a sto se tice klubova nismo posetili ni jedan mada nam je jedan bio u neposrednoj blizini hotela.
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Posebna draz su mostovi preko Ljubljanice kojih ima nekoliko na razdaljini od oko kilometra.
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Ljubljana
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DAN II 21.08.
Ustali smo nesto pre 7 ujutro i prosetali jos malo Ljubljanom.
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U parku Tivoli nailazimo na izlozbu fotografija Dragoljuba Zamurovica "Pejzazi Srbije". http://www.artzamur.com/ (http://www.artzamur.com/)
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Setnja Ljubljanom i jutarnja kafa na Presernovom trgu.
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Ljubljanski mali pijac
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Kazu ako se ne slikate na Zmajskom mostu kao da niste bili u Ljubljani.
Evo mi bili :)
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Po nama Ljubljana sredjena, uredjena, bez mnogo buke i saobracaja lepa za ziveti u njoj.
U 9:30 krecemo dalje. Prva danasnja destinacija koju cemo posetiti je usce dve Save, Save Dolinke i Save Bohinjke nedaleko od Radovljice. Izbegavajuci autoput usput srecemo i bubijadu.
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Navigacija me vodi prema koordinati koju sam uneo i parkiram se 100m metara od usca.
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Posto je Obrenovac na Savi posebno mi je bilo zanimljivo da posetim mesto gde nastaje Sava. Ovde je Sava jos uvek planinska reka koja se moze pregaziti za razliku od Obrenovca gde je siroka oko kilometar na nekim delovima i dosta dublja pa je jedna od opcija preplivavanje :).
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Jelena odmara dok ja uvezbavam moje fotografsko umece.
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Nastavljamo dalje prema Trzicu.
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Uskim brdskim putem preko Begunje na Gorenjskem i Hudi Grebena izbijamo na magistalu od Trzica prema Austriji.
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Prolazimo tunel i nailazimo na tablu dobrodoslice
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Nedugo zatim pravimo pauzu za dorucak i upoznajemo se sa prvim lepotama Koruske.
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Detalji kao ova skulptura su sastavni deo cele Koruske. Naravno i motori su nezaobilazni deo. Ako bi hteli da se javite svakom bajkeru koji vam nailazi u susret vozili bi iskljucivo samo desnom rukom :)
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Ferlach
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Oko podne stizemo na prvu destinaciju u Koruskoj - Villacher Alpenstraße.
To je prvi od nekoliko puteva koje cemo proci sledecih dana.
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16,5 km Villacher Alpenstraße iz Möltschach do Dobratsch i do Rosstratte (1732 m) ima ukupno 7 serpentina i 116 krivina. Rosstratte na kraju Villacher Alpenstraße pru¾a panoramski pogled na Julijske Alpe, Karawanken
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Odlucili smo da do vrha ne pravimo pauze nego da u povratku stanemo na neke od vidikovaca.
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Pogled sa vidikovca.
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Posle lepih panorama nastavljamo dalje preko Vilacha prema Spittalu i Karlsdorfu.
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Oko 16h stizemo u Karlsdofer-hof gde se upoznajemo sa domacinima i smestamo se u sobu.
Posle kraceg odmora odlazimo u setnju do sledeceg sela da bi u jednom od
pansiona kupili nedeljnu KARNTEN CARD koja je ujedno ulaznica za mnogo destinacija koje cemo posetiti. U potpunosti se isplati uzeti KARNTEN CARD jer
3-4 pojedinacne ulaznice prelaze cifru od 34 EURA koliko je nedeljna kartica ze jednu osobu.
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Karsdofer-hof je pansion sa restoranom. U neposrednoj blizini je Milstat jezero.
U pansionu su tih sedam dana pored nas boravili dve porodice iz Nemacke, Italijan sa devojkom, par iz Holandije, jos jedan par iz Nemacke, porodica iz Ceske i u prolazu jedno vece bajkeri iz Italije. Komunikacija izmedju nas uz veceru odvijala na prevodjenju sa nemackog na engleski, sa engleskog na talijanski. Zanimljivo iskustvo.
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Koru¹ka zauzima ju¾ni deo Austrije. Pokrajina se granièi:
na severu - pokrajina Salcburg,
na istoku - pokrajina ©tajerska,
na jugu - Slovenija,
na jugozapadu - Italija,
na zapadu - pokrajina Tirol.
Sa povr¹inom od 9.535,97 km² Koru¹ka je po velièini peta pokrajina u dr¾avi.
Reljef: Koru¹ka je planinsko podruèje, u srcu Alpa. Sredi¹nji deo je u sklopu prostrane Klagenfurtske kotline, koja je mestimièno ispresecana pobre¾jima i brdima. Nadmorska visina je oko 350-600 metara. Ostali deo je izrazito planinski, sastavljen od niza planina u okviru Alpa. Na jugu se pru¾aju Karavanke, na istoku Korski Alpi, na severu Gurk Alpi, na zapadu Kra¹ki Alpi. Na krajnjem severozapadu nalaze Tauern Alpi, sa najvi¹im vrhom Austrije, Grosgloknerom (3.798 m).
Klima: Zbog znaèajne nadmorske visine i planinskog tla Koru¹ka ima o¹triju kontinentalnu klimu, koja samo u najvi¹im delovima prelazi u planinsku.
Vode: Sredi¹njim delom Koru¹ke protièe reka Drava, koji se danas smatra sastavnim delom pokrajinskog identiteta. Ona u pokrajini prima nekoliko pritoka; leve pritoke su Lizer, Gurk, Glan i Lavant, a desna je Gejl. Doline datih reka su glavne veze sredi¹njeg dela pokrajine sa okru¾enjem. Pored vodotoka, u Koru¹koj postoji i niz lednièkih jezera, od koji su poznata: Vorter, Mil¹tat, Osijah i Faker.
DAN II 22.08.
Za taj dan sam predvideo rutu od 320km.
Krenuli smo posle dorucka oko 8:45.
Ruta:
Malta-Hochalm-Strasse
Porsche automuseum Gmund
Nationalpark Nockberge Nockalmstrasse
Turracher Höhe - Zicara
Ferndorf
Zlan
Farchensee Landesstrasse
Hermagor
Weissensee - Zicara
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Posle uskog seoskog puta izlazimo na siri put koji ide dolinom reke Lieser. Put odlican za voznju.
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Brzo stizemo do Gmunda odakle nastavljamo prema Malti. Putevi puni brzih krivina sa ogranicenjem od 70-100km/h. Prosto mame da se vozi brzo.
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Malta Hochalmstraße je put kroz dolinu vodopada duzine 14,5 km. Vodi do 1933m nadmorske visine i najvise betonske brane u Austriji - Kölnbreinsperre.
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Negde na pola uspona zaustavlja nas semafor koji regulise saobracaj na jednom delu puta kojim vodi uzi put kroz nekoliko tunela kojim ne mogu da se bezbedno mimoidju dva vozila.
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Ovih 14 minuta je trajalo ne duze od 5 minuta. Napravila se poprilicno duga kolona automobila sa kamp kucicama ispred semafora.
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Na kraju uspona se nalazi brana i restoran.
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Ljudi se sami nude da vas fotografisu.
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Spustamo se istim putem nazad prema Gmundu i Porsche muzeju.
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U Gmündu u Koru¹koj, 18. maja 1982, diler antikviteta Helmut Pfeifhofer otvorio je prvi privatni muzej Porsche automobila u Evropi. Misli se da je jedan Gmündner nije dobio ideju za izgradnju takvog muzeja bez razloga. Pospan grad Gmünd u Koru¹koj, najju¾nijoj austrijskoj saveznoj pokrajini od 1944, bio je mesto gde je Porsche bio u moguænosti da opstane, nakon preseljenja iz Stuttgarta, sa svojim timom i masinama zbog ratnih previranja do ozdravljenja.
U poèetku, proizvodnja poljoprivrednih masina, vitla, pribora za traktore, kolica, itd. Godine 1947, Cisitalia - Race napravljen sa moguæno¹æu izbora èetiri tocaka i kompresorom. U martu 1948 pravi se prvi automobil s nazivom Porsche, Porsche 356, u Gmündu. Dvadeset kilometara severno od Gmünda poèinje jedan od najstrmijih prelaza u Europi: Katschberg padine su do 32%. Idealna staza za testiranje Porschea.
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Posle kraceg casa Porsche istorije krecemo prema glavnoj destinaciji tog dana nacionalni park Nockberge i Nockalmstraße.
35 km dug krivudavi put koji vodi kroz vrlo fascinantno podruèje. Nockberge planine - nacionalni park nalazi se u visokim planinama koje je dom smreka, ari¹a i borove ¹umom istoènih Alpa. Vo¾nja Nockberg nacionalnim parkom je trajno iskustvo za svakog ljubitelja prirode.
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Nedge na pola deonice pravimo prvu pauzu.
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Za ljubitelje honde jedan Crossrunner
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Krivina, krivina pa opet krivina...
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Oko podne stizemo na drugo odmoriste na Nockalmstraße.
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Citamo poruke na mobilinim telefonima u kojima nam se zale na nepodnosljivu vrucinu u Srbiji. Ni nama nije bilo hladno na ovih 2000 metara je bilo iznad 30 stepeni. Kafa, sok...
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... nastavak voznje prema sledecoj destinaciji.
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Panoramabahn Turracher Höhe - zicara
Glavna atrakcija celokupnog putovanja po Koruskoj bile su nam zicare. Odlicna mesta za pauzu sa panoramsim razgledanjem okoline. Nadam se da vam necu dosaditi sa brojem zicara koje smo koristili ali jednostavno su bile hit-pauze.
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Dokle li ovo ide :)
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Voznju nastavljamo od Turracher Höhe preko Patergassena i Bad Kleinkirchheima gde se u Billi naoruzavamo vodom i hranom. Samo
tog dana smo zagladneli malo jer nas je prvo jutro bilo malo sramota
da ocistimo svedsi sto za dorucak, sto ostalih dana nije bio slucaj :)
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Prolazimo obodom Milstat jezera i nailazimo na obuku vozaca motocikla.
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Prolazimo prelepim predelima izmedju Stockenboia - Bodena - Matschiedla
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Pauza pre izlaska na magistralu prema Hermagoru.
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Nastavljamo prema Hermagoru i sledecoj pauzi zicari iznad Weissensee jezera.
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Zicara i panorama
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Kad smo sisli sa zicare bilo je 17h i vec smo presli 300km. Posto smo tog dana dosta prosli i videli odlucujemo da se vratimo u pansion koji je 35km udaljen od zicare i odmorimo se posle prvog dana.
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Ceo dan je bilo toplo, cak pretoplo pa smo nedostatak tecnosti nadoknadili
odlicnim Stiegl pivom.
DAN IV 23.08.2011.
Danasnja destinacija je vise turisticka nego moto-destinacija - SALZBURG.
Salzburg je udaljen 140km autoputem od naseg smestaja pa smo to iskoristili
da obidjemo Mocartov rodni grad.
Salzburg je èetvrti po velièini grad u Austriji, sme¹ten u sredi¹njem delu dr¾ave. Salzburg je upravno, privredno i kulturno sredi¹te istoimene pokrajine Salzburg, gde èini zaseban gradski okrug.
Salcburg je poznat po starom baroknom jezgru, jednim od najoèuvanijih u srednjoj Evropi. Zbog toga je gradsko jezgro Salzburga uvr¹teno na listu kulturne ba¹tine Uneska. U saglasju je i druga posebnost Salcburga - poznat je i kao „grad klasiène muzike“, najvi¹e zahvaljujuæi tome ¹to se tu rodio Volfgang Amadeus Mocart.
Prva stanica u Salzburgu bila nam je Hellbrunn Palata.
Hellbrunn Palace je ranobarokna vila zamak velièine, u neposrednoj blizini Morzg, u ju¾ne èetvrti grada Salzburga. Izgradio je 1613-1619 Markus Sittikus von Hohenems, princ-nadbiskup u Salzburgu, a pod nazivom za "lekoviti izvori". Hellbrunn je samo namenjena za kori¹tenje kao danevni boravak u letnjim mesecima, dok se nadbiskup obièno se vracao u Salzburg u veèernjim satima. Zato ne postoji spavaca soba u Hellbrunn palati.
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Dvostrano stepeniste u prednjem delu vodi do glavnih vrata dvorca Hellbrunn palate. Na prvom spratu palate Hellbrunn, naæi æete izvanredanu "Fürstenzimmer" ili "Kne¾evu komoru", najznaèajniji "Festsaal".
To je ukrasio Arsenio Mascagni oko 1615, talijanski oslikanim zidovima i stropovima u potpunosti sa ulicnim scena.
(https://www.motomanijaci.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg52.imageshack.us%2Fimg52%2F1816%2Fdsc02480gk.jpg&hash=4e5edbdb80b5c808aba6b386c7e0921e8da28864)
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Ceo kompleks Hellbrunn obuhvata oko 60 hektara a vecim delom
dominira uredjeni park za posetioce.
(https://www.motomanijaci.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg189.imageshack.us%2Fimg189%2F3684%2Fdsc02495u.jpg&hash=489c22bbf39742c7769999d4cdc9e7f749f029d3)
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Glavna atrakcija Hellbrunn palate su trick fountains.
(https://www.motomanijaci.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg845.imageshack.us%2Fimg845%2F1010%2Fdsc02511f.jpg&hash=1f23d2dc794921f4192a50d5f9c1cf9896d9a5a6)
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Trik fontane Hellbrunn Palate su sagradili zidari iz Salzburga i Italije, najbolji majstori svog vremena, pod vodstvom Santino Solarija. Najpoznatija obilezja je Neptunfountain od HC Asper, izgraðena u ranom 17. veku i tzv rimsko pozoriste s mermernim stolom sa stolicama koja su deo skrivene fontane.
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Ako je Princ nadbiskup domaæin veèere u Hellbrunn Palace, niko nije smeo da ustane sa svoje stolice dok princ nadbiskup je jo¹ uvijek sedi - ¹to obja¹njava za¹to samo njegova stolica nije na meti fontana.
(https://www.motomanijaci.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg856.imageshack.us%2Fimg856%2F2835%2Fdsc02519q.jpg&hash=461ea61741c87756cad6eac2b208733c6f4bcab1)
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Turu kroz trick fountains je organizovana i vodic sa vremena na vreme ukljucuje fontane i prskalice
koje su postavljane u podu, na raznim visinama na zidu, na plafonu i povremeno ih vodic ukljucuje
i iznenadi posetioce. Prijalo je po toj vrucin malo se pokvasiti.
(https://www.motomanijaci.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg708.imageshack.us%2Fimg708%2F2851%2Fdsc02547bv.jpg&hash=2ef7ac6f4115a309b7db566064190846adb7b874)
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Pri kraju ture nailzaimo na mali pozoriste cije figure se pokrecu snagom vode. Pokretni mehanizam se
temelji na pet automatskih pumpi koje su deo celine i pokreæu mehanièka pozoriste. Ovo pozoriste Hellbrunn sadr¾i 138 pokretne, drvene figure.
(https://www.motomanijaci.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg710.imageshack.us%2Fimg710%2F660%2Fdsc02540wl.jpg&hash=89a2ac34ae40012c4c108bf8cc41783370427515)
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U neposrednoj blizini palate, nalazi se Salzburski zoolo¹ki vrt koji smo posetili.
(https://www.motomanijaci.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg197.imageshack.us%2Fimg197%2F4721%2Fdsc02549wt.jpg&hash=eb9a63266cc96b7721398b152ac542395cd6e2ad)
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Posle posete Hellbrun palati krecemo prema centru Salzburga i prvo idemo do
Leopoldskron palate.
Leopoldskron je rokoko palata i nacionalni povesni spomenik u Leopoldskron-Moos, ju¾noj èetvrti grada Salzburga. Palata se nalazi na jezeru Leopoldskroner Weiher. Princ-nadbiskup u Salzburgu grof Leopolda von Anton Eleutherius Firmian (1679-1744) napravio je palatu 1736 na obalama veæ postojeæih ribnjaka, nakon ¹to se obogatio u procesu proterivanja preko 22.000 protestanata iz Salzburga.
Palata je poznata i po snimanju filma 1964 "Sound of music".
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Nazalost u samu paltu nije moguce uci bez prethodne najave, pa smo se upitili prema
centru Salzburga.
Reè Salzburg u prevodu znaèi „grad soli“ (salz+burg). Poreklo ovog naziva vezano je za srednji vek, kada je rekom Salcah prevo¾ena so. Kao vredna roba tog doba ona je podlegala carini na mestu dana¹njeg grada. Zahvaljujuæi tome ovde se razvio dvorac (grad), iz koga se izrodilo dana¹nje gradsko naselje.
Hohensalzburg tvrdjava
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Posle snalazenja oko parkiranju u Salzburgu idemo u stenju gradom i prvo posecujemo
Mirabell palatu park u okviru palate.
(https://www.motomanijaci.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg716.imageshack.us%2Fimg716%2F1817%2Fdsc02602no.jpg&hash=cb449e4b6f302438942e0f903e2511625aafa34a)
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Svetski poznati Mirabell Gardens izgraðeni su du¾ osi sever-jug i usmerena prema Hohensalzburg tvrðavi i Salzburger Dom katedrali. Izvorni vrtovi su ponovno modelirani prema planovima Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach pod vla¹æu kneza nadbiskupa Johann Ernst Thun u 1689.Franz Anton Danreiter ih menja opet 1730, u obliku onoga ¹to se sada smatra jednim od najlep¹ih baroknih vrtova u Evropi.
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U srednjem delu parka nailazimo na orkestar koje se sprema za nastup.
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Park je kao i sam grad prepun turista a jedan japanac se ponudio da nas fotografise.
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Nastavljamo setnju Salzburgom i stizemo do Mocartove rodne kuce.
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U samoj kuci koja je pretvorena u muzej nije dozvoljeno fotografisanje ali
sam ja pre nego sto me upozorio jedan od cuvara uradio nekoliko fotografija.
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Pogled iz Mocartove dnevne sobe
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Salzburg ima oèuvano staro gradsko jezgro, mahom obrazovano u vreme baroka. Staro jezgro se smestilo ispod srednjovekovnog dvorca na brdu i sastavljeno je od niza trgova i uskih ulica. Kao va¾no sredi¹te rimokatolièke crkve grad ima mnogo crkava i kapela, koje su monumetalne i rasko¹ne.
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Najveca atrakcija je dvorac iznad Salzburga - Hohensalzburg.
Prvi zapis o utvrdi na ju¾noj strani planine Mönchsberg datira iz rimskog doba, ali to nije sigurno. Meðutim, to bi ima smisla: s pozicije Hohensalzburg dvorac se mo¾e videti okolina Salzburga i Salzach reka bolje nego bilo gde drugo u celom gradu.
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Kompletan dvorac je uredjen kao muzej sa stalnim i povremeni postavkama.
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Posle posete tvrdjavi polako zavrsavamo nasu posetu Salzburgu i spustamo se u
Getreidegasse Lane najposeceniju ulicu u gradu.
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IMG]http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/4138/dsc02678qt.jpg[/IMG]
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Posle celodnevne setnje po Salzburgu pravimo pauzu u Mirabell parku, posle
cega oko 18h krecemo nazad u Karlsdorf.
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DAN V 24.08.2011.
Posle turistickog dana sledi jedan motodan - Grossglockner.
Krecemo posle obilnog dorucka na danasnju rutu:
Kolbnitz
Obervellach
Schmelzhutten
Grossglockner
Bruck An der Grossglockner
Wagrain
Radstadt
Mauterndorf
Katschberg
Kremsbrucke
Eisentratten
Gmund
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Nakon pola sata vozjne pravimo prvu pauzu kod Raggaschlucht klanca.
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Nesto obilniji dorucak povecava potrebu za vodom.
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Svet vodene avanture. Tokom hiljada godina Raggabach bujica formirala jedan od najlep¹ih prirodnih klanaca Alpa.
U vertikalnim stenama usecen je uski klanac kojim dominira huk vode. Ve¹to ureðene stepenice i mostovi olak¹avaju
planinarenje kroz sam klanac.
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Posle naporne setnje kroz prelepi klanac i pipjene skoro tri litre vode krecemo
prema Grossglockneru.
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Porschea ima i previse na ovim putevima :)
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Kod ulaza na sam put stizemo nesto posle 10h
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Popijena kolicina vode nas oboje tera da napravimo pauzu nedaleko od ulaza.
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Na 3.798 m Grossglockner je ne samo najvi¹a planina u Austriji, nego se ubraja
i meðu najvi¹e vrhove u Alpima.
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Da nije tragicno nastrado u ovom automobilu bi ocekivao za volanom
James Dean-a
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Jedna od atrakcija su i "zamotavaci" cokolade.
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Naidjoh i na novog V-Stroma
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Temperatura tog dana u nizim predelima Koruske je bila oko 35 stepeni.
Uspeli smomao da se rashladimo na Grossglockneru na prijatnih po slobodnoj
proceni 25-27 stepeni.
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Ovo dvoje malo podsecaju na nas :)
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Najpoznatiji alpski put vodi u srce Hohe Tauern National Parka, na najvi¹u planinu u Austriji,
Grossglockner (3798 m) i ledenjak, Pasterze.Vo¾nja i iskustvo posebne vrste na 48 kilometara
dugackim alpskim putem sa 36 serpentina i usponom do 2.504 metara.
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Usput stajemo na jos jednu zicaru i uzivamo u panoramama sa vrha
no koji nas je odnela.
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Malo poziranja
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Jos malo poziranja i pozdrav sa Grossglocknerom oko 13:45
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Navigacija nas dalje vodi lepim predelima Koruske a cilj je bila zicara
Katschberg koja je otvorena do 16h a do nje smo imali oko 150km.
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Prolazimo kroz jedan od ski centara u ovom delu Obretauern
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Do zicare o Katschberg stizemo u 15:40 i na kasi dobijamo informaciju
da zicara adi jos samo dvadeste minuta i da cemo se vratiti peske sa vrha
na sta sma ja odgovorio da neco ni silaziti sa zicare nego cemo samo napraviti
krug na sta se kasirka slatko ismejala i pozelela nam srecnu voznju.
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"Onom dolinom smo dosli"
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Posle zicare vozimo zista strmim putem prema Gmundu i nasem smestaju
gde stizemo oko 17h.
Inace svake srede domacini u Karsldorfer-hofu organizuju rostilj za svoje goste,
pa smo se uz pivo, rostilj i prevodnjenje nemacki-engleski-talijanski druzili sa nasim
domacinima i ostalim gostima. Rostilj je bio bogat i sa dosta salata i dodatnih soseva.
Zaista sam prijatno iznenadjen gostoprimstvom.
DAN VI 25.08.2011.
Tog dana nismo planirali neku dugacku voznju. Vise smo se bazirali
na Spittal i sadrzaj oko njega i na kraju na nezaobilazni zenski provod
shoping, mada moram priznati da sam se i ja ponovio u istom :)
Prvo smo otisli u neposredu blizinu Spittala na Put Goldeck Panorama.
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Put du¾ine od 14,5 km, koji ide od Zlana do "Seetal" Goldeck terminal parkirali¹te
na nadmorskoj visini od 1,895 m.
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IMG]http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/6323/dsc02899p.jpg[/IMG]
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Malo jutarnjeg razgibavanja.
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Sto je malo ogledalo :)
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Svakako da put nije atraktivan kao Grossglockner ali deset serpetina i put
koji u vi¹e navrata nudi velièanstven pogled na jezero Millstatt, Nock Planine,
"Hohe Tauern", "Gailtaler Alpen", Karawanke i doline Drave prema Villachu.
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U silasku sa Goldeck-a sam malo promeni rutu i naisao na sumski makadam
u duzini od oko jednog kilometra.
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Ubrzo stizemo da sledeceg odredista a to je Millstatt.
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Tog dana nam je preovladjujuci dogadjaj bilo krstarenje po Millstatt jezeru.
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U jednoj od garaza mogu se videti i ovakvi primerci.
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Jezero Millstätter See je oko 12 km dugo i do 2 km ¹iroko i nalazi se na nadmorskoj
visini od 588 m. Sa dubinom od 142 m to nije samo najdublje, vec i najtoplije Koru¹ko
jezero za kupanje.
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Kapetan ladje :)
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Obala je uredjena i ima dosata objekata za iznajmlivanje.
Kome ne odgovara iynajmljivanje smestaja ima mogucnost
da postavi kamp kucicu ili sator u organizovanom kampu.
Postoji mogucnost da se oprobaju razni sportovi na vodi.
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Stekao sam utisak da sta god vam padne na pamet sigurno postoji
mogucnost da to dobijete u okolini Millstat jezera.
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Samo krstarenje je trajalo dva sata i trideset minuta. Posto smo sve vrema
bili na palubi malo smo promenili boju koze lica. Srecom nismo mnogo
izgoreli.
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Policajcima je izgleda poprilicno dosadano.
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Jedan od pansiona uz samo jezero.
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I nezaobilazno pivo
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Posle krstarenja odlazimo do Goldeck zicare koja nas vodi do samog vrha Goldecka
preko 2000 metara iznad mora odakle se pruza prelep pogled na Spittal i dolinu Drave.
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Nesto pre 16 nakon odlaska do smestaja i presvlacnje odlazimo u setnju
po Spittalu i naravno u shoping.
Jao koliko cipela
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Sto su dobre...
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A mozda ipak nisu?
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Tako je izgledao ostatak dana.
Spittal na Dravi je grad u austrijskoj saveznoj pokrajini Koru¹koj, te va¾an
urbani i saobracajni centar u Gornjoj Koru¹koj.
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Sa 16.045 stanovnika (2001.) Spittal je nakon Klagenfurta, Villacha i Wolfsberga
èetvrti koru¹ki grad po velièini. Smestio se na 560 m nadmorske visine, u dolini
reka Drave, Liesera i Mölla, te Millstatt jezera i Gurktalskih Alpa (Nockberge).
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Na tlu dana¹njeg Spittala i to na levoj obali reke Lieser grofovi Ortenburg su
1191. godine utemeljili bolnicu (Spittl) s crkvom uz koju se uskoro razvilo i
naselje, sa ciljem pomoci hodoèasnicima na putu s Katschberga prema jugu.
Naselje se nalazilo pod za¹titom utvrdjenja grofova Ortenburger, koje je sagraðena
najverojatnije na mestu dana¹njeg dvorca Porcije.
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U jesen 1919. godine za vreme teritorijalnih pretenzija Kraljevine Srba, Hrvata i
Slovenaca na teritoriju Koru¹ke, dvorac Porcia je kraæe vreme bio i sedi¹te koru¹ke
vlade. Na desetogodi¹njicu tih dogaðaja Spittal je 1930. godine konaèno progla¹en gradom.
Dan smo zavrsili sa jednim od koruskih specijaliteta i kupom.
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DAN VII 27.08.2011.
Ruta:
Annenheim
Ferlach
Zell - Pfarre
Bad Eisenkappel
Griffen
Bruckl
Burg Hochosterwitz
Gurk
Arriach
Feld Am See
Seeboden
Prva pauza tog dana bila nam je Gerlitzen Panorama-Kanzelbahn
kod Annenheim-a.
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Najzanimljivije desavanje na toj zicari su bili parglajderi. Prvo nam nije bilo
jasno gde vuku tolike ranceve sa sobom ali kad smo stigli na vrh videli smo
svrhu tih ranceva.
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I ove bicikle su stigle zicarom.
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Lagana setnja po vrhu.
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Priprema pred spust.
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Ove mesto je kao stvoreno za praglajder. Preko 2000 metara nadmorske
visine, zicara koja vas dovozi sa nekih 500 metara i izgleda povoljni vetrovi.
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Sama okolina planina i jezera upotpunjuju dozivljaj spusta paraglajderom
sa ovog vrha. Verujem da je vrhunsko uzivanje u pitanju.
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Postoji cak i mogucnost spustanja sa instruktorom. Za cenu nismo pitali
jer bi se sigurno odlucili za jedan spust (bar Jelena).
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Sledeca pauza je Panoramic Tower Pyramidenkogel iznad Worther jezera.
Do samog tornja prolazimo pored Worther jezera i kroz mesto Velden.
Urednost nas vise ne iznenadjuje posto smo se vec navikli na nju.
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Parkiramo se pored jednog "borbenog" vozila :)
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Pyramidenkogel je jedan od najlepsih koruskih vidikovaca.
Na nadmorskoj visini od 905 m u¾iva se u prelepom pogledu na
Koru¹ku i jezero Wörthersee i Keutschach - dolina od 4 jezera.
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Rutu nastavljamo preko Ferlacha prema Zell-Pfarre. Polako se iz doline
penjemo na planinu.
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Pre nego sto smo izbili na visoravan gde je smesten Zell-Pfarre prosli kroz jedan
kraci klanac recice Waidischbach.
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Put neopteredcen saobracajem polako postaj esve uzi i uzi i do pred sam
izlazak na visoravan.
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Sa ove visoravni se sputamo u dolinu Ebriachbach prilicno strmim i uskim
putem punim serpentina.
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Cilj nam je bila pecina u Bad Eisenkappelu gde smo stigli oko 13:15.
Na uzazu u pecinu saznajem da ukupna tura kroz pecinu traje izmedju
2 i po i 3 sata tako da smo odustali od posete jer nas je cekalo
jos oko 200km voznje tog dana. Nastavljamo prema dvorcu Hochosterwitz.
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Bilo je prilicno toplo toga dana pa smo se dali u potragu za nekim
od Billa marketa da bi kupili vode sto i nije bio neki problem posto
ih izgleda ima na svakom cosku. Posto smo kupili vodu i nesto malo
da prezalogajimo krenuli smo preko Kraiga prema Gurku. Usput smo
napravili i jednu pauzu gde smo imali tesku borbu sa osama posto
smo hteli da se malo okrepimo.
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Posle gotovo nemoguce misije laganog rucka nastavili smo prema Gurku.
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Ova deonica je puna bajkera.
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Od Gurka nastavljamo fenomenalnim putem prema Feldkirchenu sa kojeg skrecemo
prema Himmelbergu uskim sumskim putem. Od Himmelberga skrecemo prema Arriachu.
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Neposredno posle Arriacha stajemo i odlucujemo, posto je 16:30, da odemu do Louis u
Villach.
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U Louis svega a ja sam uzeo samo neku kozmetiku za motor i motoodela.
Da sam dosao da kupujem opremu tesko bi bilo odluciti se od tolikih
modela razne moto opreme.
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Polako se vracamo prema smestaju od Villacha preko Afritz am see, Feld am See i Seebodena.
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Petak je u nasem pansionu "huhn tag" tako da smo dan zavrsili sa pilecim
krilcima i nazobilaznim Stiegl pivom.
DAN VIII 27.08.2011.
Za taj dan sam planirao njaduzu rutu koja je trebalo da izgleda ovako
Schloss Bruck - Lienz
Sillian
Cortina D'ampezzo
Forni Di Spora
Sauris
Prato Carnico
Comeglians
Oberdrauburg
Medjutim prateci vremensku prognozu za taj dan u tim krajevima je prognozirana kisa.
Ipak smo krenuli putem Lienza ali smo posle prvog tunela uleteli u kisu. Nije problem
bila kisa nego sto su oblaci obecavali celodnevne padavine a nesto mi nije prijalo da
ceo dan vozim po kisi narocito ovu rutu priblizne duzine 400km. Posto smo se vratili
nazad ostalo je da isplaniram danasnju rutu koja nije trebalo da bude dugacaka posto
je za poslepodne najavljena kisa. Pre ulaska u Seeboden pravim rutu
Feld am see
Arriach
Gnesau
Bad Kleinkirchheimer
Nockalmstraße
Gmund
Nesto preko 100km za taj dan.
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Dan ranije sam prosao putem Himmelber - Arriach koji mi se izuzetno svideo
pa smo tog dan prosli istim samo u kontra smeru. Krivudav put kroz prelepu
prirodu.
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Sledeca pauza je zicara Bad Kleinkirchheimer Bergbahnen.
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I ova zicara ide visoko
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Krave u nirvana stanju
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Posle uspona zicarom od nekih pola sata vidimo da su se oblaci uputili prema nama.
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Praceni jakim vetrom u ledja krecemo prema Nockalmstraße.
Kisa nam je sve blize i blize.
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Idemo uz Nockalmstraße sa druge strane u odnosu na prvi dan.
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Sto smo blizi prvom prevoju oblaci su sve tamniji i tamniji.
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Nedaleko od prevog prevoja nazilazimo na mokar kolovoz i stajemo da
obucemo kisna odela.
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Ostatak Nockalmstraße vozimo po jakoj kisi.
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Negde oko 14h stizemo u smestaj. Oblaci su se razvukli i kisa je prestala i
odlucujemo da posle podne provedemo u Spittalu. Medjutim oko 15:30 kisa je
nastavila i padala je do kasno u noc tako da smo po povratku iz Spittala u nas
smestaj nekih 5 km pokisli. Kod sebe smo imali samo jaknu od dvodelnog
kisnog odela. Medjutim ni ta kisa nije pokvarila kompletan utisak o putovanju.
Koruska je definitivno top destinacija i za turiste i za bajkere.
Definitivno je tacan reklamni slogan - "Carinthia - motorbikers' paradise"
Putevi odlicni, predeli lepi, jednostavno potpuno uzivanje.
KARNTEN Lust am leben - Radost zivljenja
Hvala svima koji su pregledali putopis od pocetak do kraja.
Nadam se da nisam preterao sa fotografijama.
Sto se tice troskova putovanja oni su bili 920 EURA u
sta spadaju svi troskovi smestaja, ishrane, goriva,
putarina i svega ostalog sto nam je palo pod ruku.
Do nekog sledeceg puta
Pozdrav od Jelene i Predraga.
[thumb_up] [clapp] [clapp]
Svaka cast za trud i detaljan putopis [clapp]
Odlican putopis, uzivao sam citajuci i gledajuci fotke.
Svaka èast za fotke i opis putovanja.
Bravo [clapp] [clapp]
odlicno :) svaka cast za voznju i fotke
svaka cast,lep putopis,kao i slike,ujedno hvala na otkrivanju sledece destinacije!
Preterao sa fotkama ? [nono]
NIKAKO! Predivne su [thumb_up]
Svaka cast za opis i hvala za lepe trenutke dok sam gledao i citao sanjajuci toplije dane.......... [sutirakamen]
koja lepota
slike vrede vise od reci
pa sam manje citao ;D ;D
[thumb_up] [klanjam_se] [thumb_up]
Odlican putopis,,,, prava stvar za ovo ruzno vreme [thumb_up]
[cheers]
Letos sam prosao iste i slicne puteve. Austrija je prelepa drzava. Prosao sam je uzduz i popreko. Ove godine cu opet. Putopis vam je extra i slike su jakooo lepe. Kao da sam putovao sa vama. Sve cestitke :)