Moto Manijaci

Krivac za ovo putovanje je Milan Papic iz Dusseldorf-a koji nas je zarazio i organizovao smestaj i rute.

Pa da pocnem

Posto do kuce u kojoj smo bili smesteni u jednom pravcu ima preko 1100km moj plan je  bio da do tamo stignem u tri dana voznje.

I DAN - 21.04.

Prvog dana sam vozio od Obrenovca do Kozarske Dubice preko BiH koridorom. Krenuli smo rano 6:45 
putem Obrenovac - Sabac - Bijeljina - Brcko - Modrica - Prnjavor - Laktasi - Kozarska Dubica.

Fotograf je tog jutra bio malo pospan pa ima malo fotografija sa tog dela puta.

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Kafe pauza u Prnjavoru.

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Put kojim smo prosli je vecim delom ex-koridor i poprilicno je kvalitetan asvalt, dosta je opterecen saobracajem
i domisljatim policajcima sa radarima.
Planiram u avgustu istim ovim putem pa cemo se potruditi da donesemo vise fotografija sa ovog dela puta.

Iz Kozarske Dubice je moja majka pa je bilo nekako logicno da posetim rodbinu posle 3 godine.

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II DAN 22.04.

Tog dana smo po dogovoru trebali da se nadjemo sa Bojanom i njegovom suprugom Zvjezdanom u Bosanskoj Krupi ali
smo se usled manjeg nesporazuma putem SMS poruka ipak nasli na Plitvickim jezerima u Hrvatskoj.
Inace Bojan je iz Bijeljine.

Mi smo rano ujuto krenuli dolinom reke Une, putem Kozarska Dubica - Kostajnica - Novi Grad - Bosanska Krupa.

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Kao mali sam se cesto kupao u Uni i odusevljavo se njenom cistocom i lepotom koja ja i dan danas nenarusena.

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U Bosanskoj Krupi skrecemo prema Bihacu i vozimo se kroz kanjoj reke Une. Saobracaja gotova da i nema,
put krivudav i solidnog asvalta ali prosto bi bio greh projuriti tim delom, tako da sam laganom voznjom
stigao do Bihaca.

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Iza Bihaca skrecemo prema granicnom prelazu Izacic prema Plitvickim jezerima, gde smo napravili
pauzu za rucak i sacekali Bojana i Zvjezdanu da nam se pridruze.

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Nismo ni razmisljali da idemo u posetu samim jezerima jer nas je cekao jos dobar komad puta za taj dan.
Plitvice - Umag. Od Plitvica idemo prema Otoccu preko visoravni na Velebitu.

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Put je odlican ali su nas ometali jaki udari bocnog vetra, pravimo pauzu iznad Senja pred sam
spust Senjskom Dragom prema moru.

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Spust Senjskom Dragom je bio poprilicno uzbudljiv jer izgleda da taj put sluzi lokalnim bajkerima
za vezbu. Onako natovaren mogao sam samo da gledam za momcima koji su bukvalno obarali motore do
krajnjih granica na tim krivinama i serpentinama, a bilo je i situacija kad su me obilazili u serpentini bez bojazni
da im neko dolazi u susret.

Jadranska magistrala na tom delu je opterecena saobracajem.

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Rijeka

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Malo duzu pauzu pravimo uz more i kafu u Opatiji.

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Posle setnje Opatijom krecemo prema Umagu, da bi stigli u neko pristojno vreme kod naseg
domacina te veceri Maria iz MK Staaari rokeri Umag.

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Tunel Ucka

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Nalazimo se sa Mariom na OMV pumpi na ulasku u Umag. Odlazimo do apartamana, kratka prica
sa Mariom odakle smo i kuda putujemo. Nezaobilazna prica o skupovima u kojoj se ja ne snalazim
jer nisam posetilac istih, dok je Bojan u toj prici poprilicno dobar, dogovor oko jutarnje kafe s
a njim i preporuka za restoran te veceri da se malo obnovimo od voznje tog dana.

Danasnji dan smo zavrsili prijatnom vecernjom setnjom Umagom.

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III DAN 23.04.

Nekako po nepisanom pravilu budim se u 6 ujutro i izlazim na terasu apartmana. Delimicno oblacno
nebo ne obecava kisu tog dana.

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Na jutarnjoj kafi kod Maria bio sam samo ja jer ostali su nesto kasnije ustali, a Mario je
tad vec otisao svojim poslom. Kratka prica uz medovacu (kafu ne pijem) i pozdrav do nekog sledeceg puta sa Mariom.

U 9:00 krecemo prema granici Hr - Slo. Na samom granicnom prelazu je velika kolona koju mi
obilazimo i bez veceg zadrzavanja ulazimo u Sloveniju.

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Posto smo se vece pre toga Bojan i ja dogovorili da jednim delom izbegavamo autoput i to u
neli u navigacije malo smo se provozali brdima oko Kopra i Trsta.

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Ulazimo u Trst gde pravimo pauzu za dorucak i odlucujemo da dalje idemo autoputem jer ako
ovako nastavimo do Firence necemo stici 2 dana.

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Autoput kroz Italiju odlican i opterecen saobracajem, verovatno zbog Uskrsa su i Italijani
krenuli na odmor van svojih gradova. Sto se tice voznje autoputem kroz Italiju ogranicanje je 130km/h koje 99% vozaca postuje najverovatnije zbog cestih elektronskih kontrola brzine na samom autoputu. Benzin je u opsegu od 1,6 do 1,75 EURA, Italijani kao vozaci kad vas preticu ne obracaju mnogo paznju koliko su prosli ispred vozila koje preticu tako da mi se nekoliko puta desilo da vozac koji me pretice pocinje da skrece desno dok jos pola automobila ide paralelno samnom.

Napravili smo nekoliko pauza a jedna je bila u Bolonji.

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Posle Bolonje odlazimo dalje jednim delom autoputem (autostrada - placa se oko 1EURO/20km),
a ostatak puta idemo magistalnim putem (superstrada - isto autoput samo nema zaustavnu traku i ne placa se)
i stizemo do San Piero in Bagno posle cega nas je cekao prelazak prevoja Passo di Mandrioli 1700mnv i dolazak
u kucu u okolini Partine u kojoj smo boravili 6 dana.

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Kuca je stara preko 500 godina i nekada je bila manastir. Danasnja vlasnica Elida po kojoj
kuca nosi ime je renovirala i izdaje je u preiodu od 01.04. do 30.11. Kuca ima 7 spavacih soba,
tri dnevna boravaka, tri kuhinje, vesernicu, zidani rostilj, ustvari sve sto je potrebno za zivot
vecem broju ljudi.

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IV DAN 24.04.

Budimo se i prvo sto smo svi uradili je pogled u oblacno nebo i negodovanje jednom recju "KISA".
Srecom kisa je prestala oko 9h.
Tokom jutra nam se pridruzio i Igor koji zivi i radi u Italiji u okolini Arezza vec nekoliko godina
i bio nam je vodja puta tog dana.
Spremamo se za "kracu" voznju tog dana koja je ispostavilo imala kilometrazu od nepunih 300 km.


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Ekipu su cinili

Milan sa suprugom Tanjom, BMW R1200GS - Dusseldorf
Milan sa suprugom Maricom, BMW R1200RT - Dusseldorf
Mile sa suprugom Karmen, YAMAHA FJR 1300 - Den Haag
Bojan sa suprugom Tanjom, BMW R1200GS - Ljubljana
Dzoni i devojka, HONDA Silver Wing - Beograd
Bojan sa suprugom Zvjezdanom, BMW R1200RT - Ugljevik
Mateja, HONDA CBRXX - Ljubljana
Nikola, BMW F650GS - Beograd
Vasa, HONDA VARADERO - Beograd
Nesa, HONDA CBRXX - Beograd
Pera, HONDA VFR800 - Sopot
Igor sa suprugom, SUZUKI GSR - Arezzo
I Jelena i ja, SUZUKI V-STROM 650 - Obrenovac

Taj dan Igor nas je vodio okolinom Arezza i Siene. Ne znam nazive svih mesta kroz koja smo
prosli ali su putevi odlicni za voznju, kvalitetan asvalt i brze krivine.

Prvo mesto koje smo posteili je Lucignano d'Arbia. Prelepi stari grad u okolini Siene.

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Posle Lucignana otisli smo u Pienzu.

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Posle posete Pienzi Milan sa BMW R1200GS ukucava rutu nazad prema kuci Elida. Ruta nas je
vodila preko brdsko-planinskih puteva u tom delu Toskane. Krivna-50 metara pravac-sledeca
krivina, jako zahtevno za voznju ali sam zahvaljujuci toj ruti poprilicno savladao prolaske
kroz krivine. Ostacete uskraceni za fotografije sa tog dela puta posto se Jelena sve vreme
cvrsto drzala za mene ili za rukohvate na motoru pa nije mnogo fotografisala.

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V DAN 25.04.

Danasnja ruta nas vodi prema Republici San Marino, u planu je bila i poseta Riminiju i eventualno stazi
na kojoj se voze trke F1 ali smo odustali jer smo krenuli oko 11h i zadrzali se u San Marinu.

Na celo kolone izlazi Milan sa BMW R1200GS i vodi nas prema San Marinu preko brda i dolina u tom delu
Italije dosta jakim tempom.

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Posle tri sata krivina stizemo u San Marino. Osnovni problem je bio gde parkirati motore
obzirom da su parkinzi pretrpani motorima i automobilima. Uz dogovor sa lokalnim saobracajcem
parkiramo motore uz ivicu kolovoza.

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U San Marinu smo ostali tri sata.

Informacije preuzete sa Vikipedije.

San Marino je jedna od najstarijih drzava na svetu.Osnovana je 301. godine ali je bila u
sastavu tadasnjeg Rimskog carstva. Njen ustav zvanicno je napisan 8. oktobra 1600. Majusnu
naciju prvo je priznala Napoleonova Francuska 1797. a kasnije 1815. na kongresu u Becu priznale
su je i ostale evropske drzave. Iako suverena, ona je u potpunosti zavisna od Italije kojom je
okruzena u celosti od 19. veka.

Djuzepe Garibaldi je ujedino Italiju 1860. a svoje skloniste od neprijatelja napravio je u San Marinu.
Tamo je dobio novcanu pomoc i namirnice koje su mu  bile potrebne da dovrsi svoju kampanju.
Garibaldi je garantovao da ce San Marino uvek biti nezavisna suverena drzava.

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Posle razgledanja San Marina krecemo nazad prema kuci Elida sa namerom da stignemo pre mraka
da bi vecerali u lokalnim restoranima u Sociju i Partini.

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Milan je naravno na celu kolone i opet krece voznja po brdima i dolinama Italije koja se ovaj
put pretvorila u jurnjavu. Kolona se dosta otegla ali smo na kraju svi zajedno stigli u Partinu
na veceru. Neki su se odlucili na restoransku varijantu a Vasa, Dzoni, Jelena i ja smo otisli
u obliznju piceriju. Cuo sam price da se pica u Italiji smatra sirotinjskom hranom i da nisu
nista posebno. Mi smo to vece jeli pice koje su bile savrsenog ukusa i solidne velicine po ceni
od 5-6 EURA i zalili ih pivom.

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VI DAN 26.04.

Po povratku iz San Marina odlucili smo da sutra (26.04) napravimo kracu rutu tj. odlucili smo da odemo do
Firence koja je od kuce udaljena oko 60km i tamo ostanemo ceo dan.

Ja sam imao peh odmah na startu ture tj. uspeo sam u koferu da zakljucam torbicu u kojoj su mi bila sva
dokumenta i veci deo novca. Probali smo na kracoj pauzi da otvorimo kofer raznoraznim metodama sem metodom
razvaljivanja i ostalo je da u Firenci potrazim nekog bravara da mi otvori kofer. Posto se do Firence takodje
islo prilicno brzo - naravno nema fotografija. U Firenci sam nasao neki pandan nasem AMS koji su mi dali adresu
jednog servisa u Firenci. Odlazim do servisa ali on radi tek od 14h. Zaustavljam jednog skuterasa i nekako se
sporazumevamo i on me odvodi nedaleko odatle do jednog bravara. Bravar je u tom trenutku izasao iz radnje i
zakljucava je. Uspostavljamo komunikaciju, ukapirao je sta me muci i kaze mi da dodjem u 14:30 posto tad nastavlja
da radi, inace radi dvokratno od 9:00 - 12:30 i od 14:30 - 19:00. U tom trenutku je bilo 12:33 i svi moji pokusaji
da ga odobrovoljim da to uradi tad nisu uspeli tako da smo se Jelena i ja provozali malo tim krajem Firence do 14:30.
Obisli smo jedan park koji je ustvari imanje nekog imucnijeg Italijana koji deo oko kuce pretvorio u park i dao ga
na javno koriscenje.

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Usput smo prosli i pored stadiona Fiorentine - Aretmio Franchi

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Rucali smo u jedinom tipu restorana koji radi u to doba i namenjen je zaposlenima u okolini koji su na siesti.
Ukupno smo za nas dvoje rucak sa desertom i dva pica platili 11 EURA sto je najjeftinije sto smo platili u
Italiji tih dana za obrok. Posle rucka vracamo se kod bravara koji kad me je ugledao na vratima poslao svog
sina da mi otvori kofer. Covek je pogledao kofer, uzviknuo "A, GIVI" i posle nekoliko sekundi se vrati sa nekim
alatom pomocu kojeg je otvorio kofer za nepunih 10 sekundi - majstorcina italijanska. Inace usluga otvaranja
kofera je kostala 5 EURA.

Po zavrsetku kod bravara cuo sam se sa ostatkom ekipe i dogovorili se da se nadjemo ma mestu na kom smo se rastali
u 17h. Imali smo dva sata za razgledanje Firence. Voznja motora kroz Firencu je poprilicno laka u odnosu na Beograd.
Vozaci automobila se sklanjaju kad vas ugledaju u retrovizoru, ispred semafora ostavljaju prostor za motore, svi se
provlace izmedju kolona automobila sto smo i mi ucinili. Parking prostora za motore koliko hoces. Prakirali smo se
na jednom bulevaru i otisli da ostatak vremena prosetamo delom Firence. Vec u tom trenutku smo Jelena i ja odlucili
da cemo doci jos jedan dan u Firencu.

Informacije sa Vikipedije.

Firenca (Italijanski: Firenze, latinski: Florentia) je glavni grad pokrajine Toskana u Italiji. Grad le¾i na reci
Arno i najpoznatiji je po svojoj srednjovekovnoj istoriji grada-dr¾ave Firence, u vreme kada je bila sredi¹te trgovine
i finansija i jedan od najbogatijih gradova u Evropi; te kao kolevka italijanske renesanse, o èemu svedoèe brojni gradski
spomenici. God. 1982., UNESCO je uvrstio stari istorijski centar na spisak svetske ba¹tine. Svojom arhitekturom, ali i muzejima
(Pitti, Uffizi), parkovima, obrazovanjem, muzikom, kuhinjom, modom, i dr., Firenca svake godine privlaèi oko milion turista.

Zbog svoje kulturne va¾nosti, Firencu nazivaju "Italijanska Atina". U njemu su ¾iveli mnogi poznati kao ¹to su: Dante Alighieri,
Giovanni Boccaccio, Donatello, porodice Medici, Botticelli, Niccolò Machiavelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Filippo Brunelleschi, Michelangelo,
Galileo Galilei i drugi.

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Posto je dogovor bio da se u 17h nadjemo sa ostatkom ekipe nismo uspeli mnogo da vidimo tog dana ali smo to
nadoknadili dva dana kasnije.

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Na putu prema kuci Elida na prevoju koji smo presli napravili smo kafe pauzu.

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U ovoj drumskoj kafani su bile cene na nekom razumnom nivou: kafa od 1 - 1,2 EURA, sokovi oko 1,5 EURA, piva oko
2 EURA, nego o cenama u ovom delu Italije cu na kraju.

VII DAN 27.04.

Nas nekoliko je odlucilo da tog dana ne idemo nigde motorima nego da se prosetamo do Partine koja je od kuce
udaljena 2km ali smo na kraju stigli do Bibbene koja je nepunih 10km od kuce.

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Posto smo se nasetali do Bibbiene i svratili u trzni centar, odlucili smo da se vratimo nazad lokalnim minibusom.
Nasli smo stanicu uz pomoc mestana, a vozac nam je rekao kako da kupimo karte za sledeci put. Cene hrane u
supermarketu u kom smo bili su oko 10% posto vece nego recimo u Maxiju kod nas, ono sto je dosta jeftinije to je
tehnika, narocito mobilini telefoni npr. Samsung Galaxy S koji je u tom trenutku kostao u Srbiji u zavisnosti od
radnje izmadju 550 i 600 EURA tamo je bio 349 EURA. I sva ostala tehnika je bila jeftinija bar 10%  nego u
Srbiji. Uporni smo pokusavali da nadjemo naki natpis
"RASPRODAJA" ali nismo uspeli da ga nadjemo.

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VIII DAN 28.04.

Posle dana odmora Jelena i ja se odvajamo od grupe i tog dana idemo prvo u Pisu a potom se vracamo za Firencu.
Tog dana smo koristili superstrade da bi stigli da obidjemo oba grada. U Pisu smo stigli oko 10h.

Informacije sa Vikipedije.

Pisa je grad u Toskani, srednja Italija, na desnoj obali u¹æa reke Arno u Ligursko more. Glavni je grad provincije
Pise. Grad je svetski poznat po svome slavnom zvoniku na Katedralnom trgu, ali i 20 drugih istorijskih spomenika i
univerzitetu iz 12. veka.

Pisa je jo¹ od 5. veka. pr. n.e. bila va¾na etru¹èanska luka na u¹æu reke Arno. Rimljani su je pokorili 225. god. pr.n.e.
i postala je glavni grad bogate kolonije Ligurnije. Veæ 313. god. Pisa dobija biskupiju, no tek je u srednjem veku Pisa
postala jedan od najva¾nijih i najbogatijih italijanskih gradova-dr¾ava koja je dominirala i Korzikom i Sardinijom.
Pisa je do 14. st. diktirala trgovinu Sredozemljem, a jedini takmac joj je bila Venecija. Iz tog vremena bogatstva
svedoèi veliki  kompleks Katedralnog trga. Nakon prve izgubljene pomorske bitke 1284. god., trgovinu je postupno
preuzela pobednica Genova, a luku u Pisi je polako zatrpavalo talo¾enje mulja, ¹to je dovelo do gubitka pomorske sile.
To je iskoristila obli¾nja Firenca koja se toliko razvila da je pretila autonomiji grada. Nakon dugogodi¹njih sukoba,
Firenca je zaposela Pisu 1406. god. Porodica Medici ponovno otvara univerzitet posveæen nauci, koji je nasta jo¹ u 12.
veku, i na njemu je studirao me¹tanin Galileo Galilei. Pisa je ostala u posedu Firence sve do 1860. god., osim kratkotrajne
zajednièke francuske i habsbur¹ke vlasti od 1494. do 1509. god.  1860., postaje delom Italijanskog kraljevstva.
Pre¾ivela je stra¹no saveznièko bombardovanje 1944. god.

U 20. veku., u¹æe reke Arno je potpuno pomereno, a luka je nestala. Lokalni univerzitet je posto sna¾an univerzitetski centar,
a Pisa sve vi¹e turistièka destinacija.

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Katedralni trg je iznenadjujuce uredan i cist obzirom koliko turista ga poseti u toku dana.
Glavana atrakcija je naravno slikanje oko krivog tornja. U sklopu kompleksa postoji i veliki
broj ulicnih tezgi sa svim mogucim tipovima suvenira. Za skoro sve mozete da se cenjkate.

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Napravili smo pauzu u poslasticarnici u neposrednoj blizini katedralnog trga. Naravno cene
nas nisu iznenadile posto smo u blizini turisticke atrakcije.

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Krecemo nazad prema Firenci ali nas je uhvatio letnji pljusak dok smo jos bili u Pisi.
Sklonili smo se ispod jednog nadzemnog prolaza i sacekali da pljusak prodje.

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U Firencu stizemo oko 15h i nastavljamo da obilazimo stari deo grada koji smo propustili da vidimo dva dana ranije.

Informacije sa Vikipedije.

Rimski veterani Julija Cezara su 59. pr.n.e. osnovali koloniju Florentia koja je u 4. veku dobila biskupiju.
Potom Firencom vladaju: Bizant, Ostrogoti, Langobardi i Franci, i u to vreme je stanovni¹tvo palo na samo
1000 stanovnika.

Ponovno o¾ivljavanje grada zapoèelo je u 10. veku., da bi 1115. god. Firenca postala autonomna regija. U 13.
veku. Firenca se na¹la izmeðu zaraæenih strana Gibelina (potpomognutih od strane careva Svetog Rimskog Carstva)
i pro-papinskih Gvelfa. Proizvodnjom vune i svile grad se jako bogati. God. 1252., uvedena je nova novcana valuta
- Florin, koji se visoko kotirao u Europi. Grad je brzo rastao do 1340. god. kada broji oko 80,000 stanovnika
(od kojih 25,000 je radilo u proizvodnji tekstila), no nakon epidemije Crne smrti, taj broj ponovno opada. U 14.
veku Firencom uglavnom vlada porodica Albizi, kojima je najveæi takmac bila porodica Medici. Oko 1400. god.,
Cosimo de 'Medici potajno veæ vlada gradom, potpomognut moænim novoprido¹licama u grad. U 15. veku u Firenci deluju
prvi renesansni umetnici kao ¹to su: Filippo Brunelleschi, Masaccio, Lorenzo Giberti, Donatello, Alberti, i mnogi
drugi. Moæ porodice Medici raste nakon ¹to su postali bankari papama. Cosima nasleðuje njegov sin Piero di Cosimo
de 'Medici, kojeg je 1469. god. nasledio Lorenzo Velièanstveni, veliki mecena umetnika kao ¹to su: Leonardo da Vinci
, Botticelli i Michelangelo. Nakon njegove smrti (1492.), i izgnanstva njegovog sina Piera (1494.) obnavlja se
republikanska uprava kojom zavr¹ava vlast Medicija, ¹to postupno dovodi do aneksije Toskane Austrijskoj kruni 1737.
god. Austrijska uprava se konstantno bori protiv uticaja Francuske i kraljevstva Sardinija-Piemont, do 1859. god.
kada Toskana postaje delom Italijanskog Kraljevstva. Od 1865. do 1870. god., Firenca je bila glavni grad Kraljevine
Italije.

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U 19. veku broj stanovnika se udvostrucio, da bi se zahvaljujuæi porastu turizma, trgovine i bankarstva taj broj
utrostruèio tokom 20. veka. Tokom Drugog svetskog rata grad je bio pod nemaèkom okupacijom (1943.-1944.), da bi
nakon osloboðenja izvan grada bili pokopani mnogi saveznièki vojnici. U novembru 1966. god., reka Arno je poplavila
celi donji grad, pri èemu su stradala mnoga umetnièka dela.

God. 1982., istorijsko sredi¹te grada je upisano na UNESCOv popis mesta svetske ba¹tine u Evropi, a 1986. god.
Firenca je bila evropski glavni grad kulture.

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Jedan od mostova preko reke Arno se istièe kao jedinstven, Ponte Vecchio (Stari Most) iz 14. veka
(na mestu starijeg etru¹èanskog mosta), èija je najmarkantnija osobina mno¹tvo trgovina izgraðenih
na rubovima. Najstariji primer mosta na segmentnim lukovima (manjih od polukruga) èija je stabilnost
pojaèana dodatnim teretom na stubovima uronjenima duboko u korito reke. Most nosi Vasarijev povi¹eni
koridor koji povezuje palatu Uffizi sa rezidencijom Medicija (Palazzo Pitti). To je jedini most u gradu
koja je pre¾iveo Drugi svetski rat netaknut. Danas se na njemu uglavnom nalaze zlatare.

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Umorni posle visesatne setnje po Pisi i Firenci odlazimo na veceru i nazad u bazu ali pre toga Jelena
je napravila jednu ogrlicu sa svojim imenom ispisanim tankom zicom.

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Firenca je prelepa i treba je posetiti nekoliko dana da bi se videlo veliko kulturno-istorijsko nasledje
koje poseduje. Mi smo je napustili sa zeljom da dodjemo jos neki put.

DAN IX - 29.04.

Destinacije koje smo posetili poslednjeg dana su Siena i San Gimignano.

Siena je grad i sedi¹te istoimene provincije u italijanskoj regiji Toskani (tal. Toscana) u srednjoj Italiji.
To je grad neobièno bogate kulturne pro¹losti, zbog tog je pod za¹titom UNESCO-a, kao kulturno dobro èoveèanstva.

Prvo naselje osnovali su Etru¹èani (900 p. n. e. - 400 p. n. e.), lokalno pleme zvano - Saina. Etru¹èani su bili
napredna kultura, svojim sistemima navodnjavanja promenili su lice centralne Italije, i uèinili plodnim i obradivom
velike povr¹ine dotad neplodne zemlje. Gradili su i dobro utvrðena naselja, obièno na uzvisenjima.

Za rimskog cara Augusta, grad se zvao Saena Julia. Siena nije prosperirala za vreme rimske vladavine, jer je bila
izvan glavnih putnih pravaca. Zbog te zabaèenosti, hri¹æanstvo je relativno kasno (tek u IV veku) prodrlo do Siene,
a i ono je do¹lo sa invazijom Longobarda. Stari rimski putevi Aurelia i Cassia (koji su istoènije od Siene),
zbog razvoja politièkih prilika na¹li su se suvi¹e blizu teritorija pod vla¹æu neprijateljskog Bizanta (Arezzo).
Zbog toga su putevi izmeðu lombardskih severnih teritorija i Rima skrenuti preko sigurnije Siene. Na taj naèin je
Siena postala va¾na usputna stanica na putu hodoèasnika u Rim, a to je omoguæilo unosnu trgovinu. Siena je vrlo rano
zavr¹ila sa feudalizmom, i okrenula se novim aktivnostima, bankarstvu i trgovini vunom. Sva vlast bila u rukama Biskupa,
no njegova vlast je slabila tokom 11. veka jer se biskup sve vi¹e morao oslanjati za pomoæ sna¾nijem graðanstvu, a naroèito
za vreme teritorijalnih borbi i razmirica sa susednim Arezzom, ¹to je kulminiralo 1167. godine kada je Gradska opstina Siena
objavila nezavisnost od biskupke vlasti. Uskoro, 1179. godine, Siena je dobila pisani Ustav.

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To je bio krunski dogaðaj u razvoju Siene kakvu poznajemo danas. U 12. veku je dovr¹en najveæi deo Katedrale
(Duomo), u to doba nastao je i Piazza del Campo, po nekima najlep¹i javni prostor Evrope, kao centar javnog
svetovnog ¾ivota. Gradski zid podignut je 1194. god. na mjestu Gradske veænice (Palazzo Pubblico) da spreèi
klizanje tla, ali i da istakne znaèaj terenu koji je postao javni prostor. U 12. veku republika je smenjena
aristokratskom vladavinom. Republika Siena (grad dr¾ava - Commune) uveæavala je svoju teritoriju na raèun
okolnih feudalaca i preuzimala njihove utvrðene dvorce u svoj sistem odbrane. Ali je istovremeno postajala
sve vi¹e mesto politièkih sukoba izmeðu interesa plemstva i plebsa (naroda), a to je dovelo do formiranja
prvih politièkih stranaka novog veka. Te stranke su obièno delovale kao opozicija prema velikom takmacu Firenci,
u XIII veku dominirali su Gibelini kao ¾estoki protivnici firentinskim Gvelfima (ovaj sukob je i pozadina velike
Danteove Bo¾anstvene komedije (Commedia Divina).

Dana 4. septembra 1260. god., sienski Gibelini, podr¾ani snagama Kralja Manfreda Sicilijanskog, pobedili su
firentinske Gvelfe u bitci kod Montapertia. Rivalstvo Sienne i Firence bilo je vrlo sna¾no tokom 13. i 14. veka,
ogledalo se i u umetnosti. Slavni srednjovjekovni slikar Duccio di Buoninsegna (1253. – 1319.) bio je iz Siene.

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God. 1404., proterani su Visconti i uspostavljena je vlada Deset priora. Godine 1472., Republika je osnovala banku
Monte dei Paschi, koja je jo¹ uvek aktivna ¹to je èini najstarijom aktivnom bankom na svetu. Plemiæi se vraæaju u
grad pod Pandolfom Petruccijem (1487.),koji sve do svoje smrti (1512.) sponzorise umetnost i nauku, braneæi Sienu
od Cesare Borgia. Unutrasnji razdori su nastavljeni, te se na vlasti smenju graðanska i plemièka frakcija sve dok
Karlo V. nije iskoristio haotiènu situaciju i u gradu postavio ¹panski garnizon. Graðani su se udru¾ili s Francuskom
u poku¹aju da ih izbaci (1552.), ali je njihov general, Piero Strozzi, pora¾en u bitci kod Marciana (kolovoz 1554.)
i nakon 18 mjeseci otpora, predali su se ¹pancima 17. aprila 1555. god., kada se obele¾ava kraj Republike Siena.
Novi ¹panski kralj Filip II. je ustupio obitelji Medici (osim niza obalnih utvrda koje daje dr¾avi Presidi) kojima
je pripadao do ujedinjenja Kraljevine Italije u 19. veku. Republikanska vlada 700 sienskih obitelji u Montalcinu se
odupirala sve do 1559. god.

Slikoviti gradiæ je ostao samo kao va¾no kulturno sedi¹te, posebno za humanistièke discipline.

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Posle popodneve kafe u Sieni nastavljamo prelepim predelima Toskane prema San Gimignanu.

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San Gimignano je mali utvrðeni srednjovekovni grad na brdu u pokrajini Siena (Toskana, srednja Italija).
Najslavniji je po svojoj srednjovjekovnoj arhitekturi, posebno po svojim tornjevima, koji se mogu videti s
nekoliko kilometara udaljenosti. Gradiæ je poznat i po svom belom vinu, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, koje se
dobija samo od loze koja raste u okolini.

San Gimignano je osnovan u 3. veku pr.n.e. kao etru¹èansko selo. Prvi zapisi o gradu potièu iz 10. veka kada
je prihvatio ime biskupa Svetog Geminianusa, koji ga je obranio od Atilinih Huna.

U srednjem veku i renesansi, bio je putna stanica katolièkih hodoèasnika na njihovom putu (Via Francigena)
prema Rimu i bazilici sv. Petra. Grad se razvijao i zahvaljujuæi razvijenoj trgovini brojnim poljoprivrednim
proizvodima zahvaljujuæi plodnim okolnim brdima. God. 1199., za vreme njegovog najveæeg razvoja, grad se
osamostalio od biskupa iz Volterre. Politièka podela (Gvelfi i Gibelini) muèila je upravu ove srednjovekovne
komune, ali je opet uspela pre¾iveti zahvaljujuæi razvitku arhitekture i umetnosti.

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Sveta Fina, poznata i kao Serafina, je svetica roðena u San Gimignanu oko 1238. godine. Po njezinoj smrti 12. marta,
1253. godine, taj dan je postao gradski praznik, a njena kuæa je postala glavnim njenim svetili¹tem.

Dana 8. maja 1300. godine, San Gimignano je ugostio Dantea kao Gvelfskog ambasadora Toskane. Grad se nastavio razvijati
do 1348. godine kada se kuga, koja je poharala celu Evropu, nakon desetkovanja Firence pojavila u gradu. San Gimignano
je do 19. veka postao drugorazrednim mestom, a tada je razvitkom turizma prepoznat kao vredna atrakcija.

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Pored istorije, San Gimignano u ovo moderno doba poznat je po poslasticaru koji je bio clan tima koji je nekoliko
godina za redom osvajao prvo mesto na svetskom prvenstvu u pravljenju sladoleda. Ja godisnje pojedem (ili polizem)
bar 10kg sladoleda i mogu vam reci da se isplatilo cekati u redu jer ovaj u San Gimignanu je savrsen.

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Posle rucka u San Gimignanu krecemo nazad prema bazi kroz vinograde u ovom delu Toskane.

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Kompletan utisak o Toskani je fenomenalan. Priroda prelepa, mozda nisam postavio dovoljan broj fotografija da se vide
prirodne lepote ali tome je kumovala i malo brza voznja. Puno starih gradova koji su poprilicno ocuvani i vodi se racuna
o njima. Kulturno-istorijsko nasledje za svaki respekt. Kultura u saobracaju na visokom nivou (sem autoputa) u gradovima
kroz koje smo prosli, nijednom nisam cuo da neko lezi na sireni zbog nekoga ispred sebe. Svi, ali bukvalno svi motociklisti
nose minimun kacigu sto je kako smo saznali deo kulture u Italiji pored zakonske obaveze da se nosi. Solidno odrzavani putevi,
mada je bilo i losih deonica narocito u brdima.

E sad sto se tice cena mi smo (Jelena i ja) za 7 dana boravka u Italiji potrosili oko 900 EURA u sta je ukljuceno:

- boravak u kuci Elida sa nasim doruckom 130 EURA po osobi
- gorivo i putarine oko 400 EURA (benzin od 1,6 - 1,8 EURA, autoput 1EURO/20km)
- po restoranima i picerijama po kojima smo rucali retko smo to mogli da izvedemo bez 25 EURA sa dva pica
- kafici - kafe od 1 - 2,5 EURA, sladoledi 0,7 kugla, sokovi i piva prosek oko 3 EURA, voda 2 EURA

Ogranicenja brzine:
- autoput (autostrada) - 130km/h
- magistralni (superstrada) - 90km/h
- gradske saobracajnice - 50 km/h

Nismo videli nijednu patrolu policije za svih 7 dana (ni u gradovima), ali se ogranicenje postuje zbog velikog broja
elektronskih meraca brzine sa kamerama.

Do nekog sledeceg puta pozdrav od Jelene i Predraga.

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super putopis,svaka cast druze....
imam par pitanja za tebe:
kako ste prosli hrvatsku,mislim zbog nasih tablica(da li ste imali nekih problema)
koju navi koristis(softver i mape) i da li te je vodila tacno do odredista bez greske?

*MIGE

Sto se tice prolaska kroz Hrvatsku prosle godine sam prosao nekoilko puta sto autoputem sto magistralinim
i lokalnim putevima i nikad nisam imao ni jedan problem, cak nisam ni primetio neke poglede koji bi bili tipa sta
ces ti ovde. Na tim proputovanjima sa smestajem sam proveo ukupno 4 noci u Hrvatskoj, Zagreb, Umag i Opatija
su bila mesta u kojima smo nocili a motor sam bez ikakvih problema ostavljao na parkingu ispred smestaja. To je
moje iskustvo.
Sto se tice navigacije korisitim Becker Z100 Crocodile sa I GO mapama i nepogersiv je u zapadnoj evropi tj. u Italiji,
Austriji i Sloveniji kroz koje sam prosao ove godine. Prosto sam se iznanadio par puta kada mi najavi kruzni tok 800m
ranije gde ga nikad ne bi ocekivao i posle toga naravno dodjem do istog. Softver je original fabricki nisam ga nadogradjivao.
Sve rute uglavnom isplaniram unapred i unesem ih u navigaciju i samo se prepustim.   

svaka cast,ali prestani
zaocice da nam pravis  ;D ;D ;D [cheers]

hvala na odgovoru.  [hello]