Obicno sam putopise pisao off-line, pa ih kasnije samo postavljao. Ovaj put mi se nije dalo tako. Nisam bio siguran ni da li pisati putopis. Nije se desilo nista posebno. Ali barem smo obisli prelepe krajeve. To je samo za utehu. Od gomile prelepih mesta nema fotografija. Moracete mi verovati na rec. Prelepo je i ko bude u prilici da ode, nece se pokajati. Mi smo na zavrsetku poslovne sezone resili da se provozamo. I bas tako smo se i ponasali, vozili se. To je i bio razlog sto nismo ovekovecili neka mesta koja su to zasluzila. Samo smo uzivali u voznji.
Skoro da nije bilo bitno gde idemo...hajde negde da se vozimo. Ja sam se malo zabavio planiranjem, bez posebnog detaljisanja. Jedino sto smo unpred resili, bila je rezervacija trajekta iz Splita do Ankone. Kako za Toscanu nismo imali nista posebno na umu, posluzio sam se ADAC-ovim kartama koje sam odstampao. Na njima su vec obelezeni zanimljivi putevi za voznju motorom ( http://www.adac.de/reise_freizeit/ratgeber_reisen/motorrad-reisen/tourenkarten/default.aspx?ComponentId=40672&SourcePageId=40453 (http://www.adac.de/reise_freizeit/ratgeber_reisen/motorrad-reisen/tourenkarten/default.aspx?ComponentId=40672&SourcePageId=40453) ).
Za Dolomite je ideja bila da obidjemo neke od prevoja na kojima nismo bili prethodnih godina. Taj recept se pokazao vrlo uspesno.
Prvi dan idemo do Splita. Vreme promenljivo, stajemo nekoliko puta da obucemo kisna odela. Normalno, cim se obucemo kisa prestaje. Nema mnogo pauziranja, poznati putevi i cepaj. Poslednji put na izlasku iz Mostara pocinje kisa i kao i do sada odmah prestaje. Odabrali smo da idemo sporednim putem prema Ljubuskom, pa na jedan mali prelaz udjemo u Hrvatsku i onda starim putem paralelno sa autoputem prema Splitu. Taman u suton stizemo u luku na ukrcavanje.
Nakon sredjivanja u kabini odlazimo na palubu da popijemo po neko pivo. Svi stolovi zauzeti, pa se prikljucujemo dvojici bikera iz Makarske. Tu krecu da se obrcu ture piva. Ubrzo nam se prikljucuje jos jedan biker sa Pala iz Bosne. Oni su svi krenuli u Misano na trke. Vece zavrsavano unutar salona, i posle nekoliko piva u kombinaciji sa rakijom koju smo poneli u cuturi, odlazimo na spavanje.
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U Anconi nas docekuje suncano jutro. Iskrcavanje, pa u potragu za izlaskom iz grada. Samo da prodjemo i pored nekog marketa da se snabdemo sa klopom. Na ovim putovanjima, jedan od obicaja nam je i da kada naidjemo na neko lepo mesto, napravimo piknik, pa valja imati u koferu nesto za tu priliku.
Ovo lutanje po Anconi se malo oduzilo, pa smo tako naisli i na nekakav vidikovac.
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Nakon izlaska iz Ancone po sistemu okolo-naokolo, konacno dolazimo na zeljeni put kojim idemo u pravcu "Parco del Monte Cucco"...Put vijuga kroz lepu prirodu i po neko seoce. Neka od tih sela deluju tiho i skoro napusteno, ali neka su i pravi biseri.
Pogled na jednoj od raskrsnica...
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U jednom od tih mesta nailazimo na salon Triumph-a u kome se kriju pravi rariteti. Naravno, bez obzira sto je u pitanju malo mesto, salon je opremljem veoma dobro i u svom sastavu poseduje i servis.
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Kako zalazimo dublje prema Toscani, predeli su sve zivopisniji. Na jednom mestu vidimo sto sa klupama ispod drveta u hladovini, i odlucujemo da tu doruckujemo...
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Posle uzitka u hrani i pogledu, nastavljamo da uzivamo u lepoti predela i voznji.
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Po nekad prekinemo sav taj uzitak da dopunimo rezerve kofeina...
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Ali odmah nastavljamo gde smo stali.
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Prilikom jednog uspona, na samom vrhu vidimo parking na kome su desetine motora, pa se zaustavljamo da vidimo o cemu se radi. U pitanju je restoran sa pogledom na Lago Trasimeno. Nismo bili spremni da propustimo priliku da upijemo malo pogleda sa terase restorana.
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Ubrzo nakon pauze, ulazimo i zvanicno u Toscanu. Predeli pocinju da lice na fotografije sa turistickih vodica.
Nailazimo na neobicno lep i ocuvan stari grad na vrhu brdasceta....Montepulciano. To je model koji se replikuje u Toscani nebrojeno puta. Samo, ovoga puta smo tek na izlasku iz grada postali svesni da ovo mozda nismo trebali da propustimo. Suvise je dobro izgledalo. Uz sve to, malo nakon povratka sa putovanja, u ordinaciju mi dolazi zena koja zivi u tom kraju i dodatno mi zacinjava pricu...pa sam se obavezao da cu to nekom nrednom posetom Toscani imati u vidu.
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Kada smo se dohvatili tih prelepih puteva, gotovo da nismo stajali. A vec smo bili na dohvat Siene.
Par fotografija koje sam napravio dok smo sipali gorivo.
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Vec na 20-ak kilometara pre Siene, poceli smo da se raspitujemo za smestaj...mada kojim smo se puteljkom dovezli do tamo nije ni cudo da ga nije bilo. U svakom slucaju, na samom ulasku u grad nalazimo pristojan hotel (90€ B&B/3 osobe).
Malo raspremanja i palimo do grada. Naravno motorima. Tu na ulasku u stari grad postoje zabrane saobracaja koje smo ignorisali i parkirali se unutar zidina na parking za motore gde parkiraju mestani.
Idemo do glavnog trga Piaca del Campo. Obicaj je da se sedi ili leskari na trgu, popije po neko pice pa ni mi nismo odoleli.
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Jos sinoc u hotelu smo proverili prognozu za naredni dan...kako idemo prema severu, u nekom trenutku bi trebalo da naidjemo na kisu. U tom smislu, i jutro je bilo tmurno. Mi smo odlucili da krenemo lokalnim puteljcima, kroz zivopisna mesta i predele. Apsolutno svako seoce kroz koje smo prosli, toliko je sarmantno da je to za ne poverovati. U jednom trenutku, put nas dovodi do jedne varosice, pa taman tu pravimo i pauzu. Dok su Aleksa i Glodjo narucivali kafu, ja sam prosetao do glavnog trga, na kakvom bi pozavidela i mnogo veca i poznatija mesta...Greve in Chianti.
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Sledeca destinacija je San Gimignano, poznata turisticka destinacija i stari grad poznat, izmedju ostalog i po svojim tornjevima. Vozimo brdskim krivudavim putevima, u grupi sa jos nekoliko motora. Fenomenalan put za krivinarenje. U jednom mestu kroz koje prolazimo je i mini sajam vina na otvorenom.
Ubrzo smo na parkingu ispred zidina starog grada. Vec je i prilicno toplo, jos uvek nista ni od kise, ni od zahladjenja. Obilazak u moto opremi nije najsrecnije resenje, ali sta je tu je.
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Na jednom od trgova nailazimo na paradu u kojoj ucestvuju vojni orkestri u svecanim unifomama.
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San Gimignano, Toscana, Italy, 2013. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBk3r3UT7M4#)
Jos malo setnje po ulicama starog grada, dok vrucina nije priterala da se sedne na pice.
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Idemo dalje prema Terme Montecatini, poznatoj banji. Vozimo najuzijim mogucim putevima. U jednom trenutku dolazimo u stari gradic San Miniato koji se nalazi na jednom uzvisenju...U Toscani su inace skoro sva mesta "na jednom uzvisenju"...Kako je glavni put za izlaz iz tog mesta bio zatvoren zbog nekih radova, dobro smo se izokretali u krug dok nismo nasli odgovarajuci pravac.
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Od tog mesta, put prema Montecatini banji postaje narocito monoton. Ide ravnicom kroz naseljena mesta...sva sreca pa je to samo za kratko.
Stajemo na jednom od trgova u kafe, da vidimo sta i kako dalje. U pravcu planina prema kojima treba da idemo, vreme ne deluje uopste primamljivo, naprotiv...spojilo se nebo i zemlja. Razmisljamo o ideji da ovde nadjemo smestaj...i bas dok smo o tome razgovarali, pocinju da padaju krupne kapi kise. Odlazim 50-ak metara dalje i nalazim pristojan smestaj po jos pristojnijoj ceni (70€ B&B/3 osobe). Jedva smo uspeli da preteramo motore do hotela, jer se kisa u trenutku pretvorila u opsti potop.
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Taman nekako dok smo se raspremili u hotelu i kisa je prestala, tako da smo izasli u jednu laganu setnju. Mesto nije preterano veliko, ali je veoma lepo i uredjeno. Tokom setnje, kisa je opet pocela padati solidnim intenzitetom, pa smo se sakrili u piceriju na pizzu i vino.
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Jutro kada smo polazili iz banje Montecatini, shvatli smo dve stvari, da je na 50m od naseg hotela bio ogromni spa kompleks koji nismo iskoristili i da smo zaboravili da sipamo gorivo, a vec smo se otisnuli u planinu. Sipacemo na prvoj pumpi...samo sto te pumpe nema, pa nema...vec sam video scenario kako na zabacenom puteljku u sred planine ostajemo bez goriva, sa razradjivanjem svih mogucih zavrsetaka.
Inace, bili smo zadovoljni sto smo, sinoc kada smo videli kako izgleda nebo u pravcu kojim treba da idemo, doneli mudru odluku da nadjemo smestaj. Put na planini je bio u blagoj izmaglici, jos uvek dobro natopljen i u prilicnoj meri prekriven liscem i po nekom grancicom, posledicom sinocne provale oblaka. Provlacio se gustom sumom, u kojoj su se samo povremeno pojavljivala kamena seoca, idilicno smestena na strmim padinama.
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U jednom od tih seoca, bas kada smo poverovali da ce nas sreca napustiti, pojavljuje se pumpa. I to ona cuvena varijanta gde sam placas karticom, i tek onda se ukljucuje automat za sipanje goriva u vrednosti koju si platio. Rasprava sa automatom je trajala barem 15-ak min, i na korak od proglasavanja kradje automat se ukljucuje i pocinjemo sipati gorivo.
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Kasnije se ukljucujemo na malo brzi put koji vijuga dolinom reke. Izasli smo iz sume i pogled se prostire po okolnim planinama. Uz gomilu veoma ostrih serpentina dolazimo do lokalnog skijalista, Abetone. Fascinantno je koliko ovih, uslovno receno manjih, skijalista ima gde god da krenes.
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Ubrzo nakon ovog mesta napustamo Toscanu i put se lagano spusta prema Maranelu i Modeni. Cak u pojednim trenutcima podseca na nase krajeve.
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Na samom ulasku u Maranelo, na jednom kruznom toku, zastajem na kratko da proverim pravac u navigaciji, i kada sam krenuo, nakon 10-ak metara vidim u retrovizoru da Aleksa stoji. Ne moze da upali motor. Posto je tu pored parking, preterujemo motor da vidimo o cemu se radi. Ubrzo postavljamo dijagnozu da je akumulator mrtav. I to tako da ne svetle ni lampice. Bez najave. Uzimamo akumulator, i Aleksa i ja na mom motoru krecemo u pravcu Modene da potrazimo da kupimo nov. Glodjo za to vreme ostaje na parkingu da nas ceka.
Na putu prema Modeni, zaustavljamo italijana na Ducati-ju koji odlucuje da nas odvede do nakakvog magacina za akumulatore. Dolazimo u trenutku dok je zatvoreno zbog dvokratnog radnog vremena i moramo da cekamo preko sat vremena. Za to vreme odlazimo do obliznje picerije, gde se raspitujemo da li mozda ima neka radnja koja radi. Dobijamo odgovor da ih ima, ali sa blagim cudjenjem nam kazu da i one ne rade u vreme pauze. Otprilike, kako pitate da li nesto radi dok je pauza za rucak. Pa tako i mi postupismo, narucismo po pizzu...ili kad si u Rimu (ovaj, Modeni) ponasaj se kao rimljanin.
Docekasmo da se i taj magacin otvori, ali bateriju koja nama treba nemaju na stanju. Radnik nam pokusava objasniti gde bi trebalo da ima. Cak je morao na karti na GPS-u da nadje ulicu, posto je u pitanju industrijska zona, i ulice po tom imenu nema. Taman kada smo krenuli na tu lokaciju, na semaforu stajemo pored policajca na motoru, koga takodje pitamo za bateriju, i on nas odvodi u obliznji Ducati servis. Vozio je tako brzo da smo ga jedva pratili.
U servisu imaju bateriju, 100€, i cekamo da se formira jedno pola sata. Servis je ogroman, bave se pripremom Ducati-ja za trke. Izvadjeni agregati su svuda oko nas, trkacki oklopi, izduvi, karbon, magnezijum, titanijum...Za to vreme, gazda servisa nas je ponudio kafom i tokom neobaveznog razgovora, rekao nam je da poznaje zastupnika za Ducati iz Novog Sada, bili su zajedno na obuci u Borgo Panigale-u.
Sa novom baterijom, vracamo se prema Maranelu.
Do Lago di Garde, idemo autoputem jer se prolazi ravnicom i nema smisla gubiti vreme. U planu nam je da svratimo gradica Sirmione. Stari grad je na malom ostrvu, koje je povezano mosticem sa kopnom. Ja sam ovde vec bio pre par godina, ali nam je usput i veoma je lepo pa ne bi da propustimo priliku. Uz to, prethodni put nisam probao sladoled, a kazu da je jedan od boljih. Da li smo se slabije razumeli ili smo mnogo podsecali na bogate ruse...uglavnom, ogromne sladolede u jos vecim kornetima platili smo po 6€.
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Vec je vece i idemo da pokusamo da nadjemo neki smestaj. Nisam ocekivao da je u septembru toliko hotela popunjeno. Idemo lokalnim puteljkom kroz naselja i povremeno stajemo da se raspitamo. U jednom trenutku nailazimo na kamp, i tu nalazimo fenomenalne bungalove po pristupacnoj ceni (47€ bugalov za 4 osobe i 25€ finalno ciscenje, u cenu ulazi i koktel dobrodoslice). Kamp je fenomenalan, ima sopstvenu plazu sa raznim sadrzajima, beach bar, restoran-pizzeriju, deo sa apartmanima, bazen...
Mi smo bili odusevljeni smestajem. Inace, varijanta smestaja u bungalovima mi se najvise svidja. Povoljnije je u poredjenju sa hotelima, nemas brigu oko ostavljanja motora, ima kuhinja pa moze da se spremi i neka hrana, a i ambijent je nacesce odlican.
Uvece smo svratili u restoran na pizzu i vino.
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Predivno jutro na jezeru, kafica na terasi, blaga uvertira za sjajan dan koji sledi.
Nakon polaska lagano klizimo putem pored jezera, uzivajuci u svim onim predivnim predelima koji nas okruzuju. Prolazimo kroz veoma zivopisna mesta okupana jutarnjim suncem. U mestu Gargnano se odvajamo od Lago di Garde i uzanim putem prepunim serpentina, penjemo se u planinu. Skoro do samog vrha, nagradjeni smo fantasticnim pogledom na jezero. Dalje nas put vodi pored vestackog jezera Lago di Valvestino. Zastajemo na mostu preko reke koja obezbedjuje vodu tom jezeru.
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Silazimo na drugu stranu. Pruza se pogled na jos jedno jezero, Lago d'Idro, na kome se smestio uljuljkani gradic u maloj kotlini. Skoro da deluje bajkovito. Bez mnogo zadrzavanja, idemo dalje. Uzeleli smo se dolaska u planinske krajeve.
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Nastavljamo dalje u pravcu Madonne di Campiglio. Predeli postaju sve lepsi. Dolazio sam nekoliko puta u Alpe/Dolomite, ali svaki put se iznova radujem. Kupili su me prvi put pre nekoliko godina i sada svaki naredni put samo dodajem ulje na vatru.
U Madonni pravimo pauzu za kafu i malo prosetamo mestom. Veliki sam ljubitelj skijanja i snowboarda, pa mi posete zimskim centrima dodatno uzbudjuju mastu.
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Na izlasku iz Madonne di Campiglio je Passo Campo Carlo Magno. Bas tu se pruza odlican pogled na okolne vrhove pa stajemo da napravimo par fotografija.
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Na putu prema Meranu, pred nama je novi prevoj, Passo Palade. Table su vec pocele da budu dvojezicne, posto je u pitanju Juzni Tirol. Uvek sam se pitao koji naziv da koristim, italijanski ili nemacki.
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Od Merana dolazimo u podnozje Jaufenpass-a (Passo Giovo), u gradic San Leonardo. Mesto je skoro nestvarno idilicno. Dopunjavamo se gorivom i krecemo na uspon. Zaustavljamo se na vidikovcu sa odlicnim pogledom na gradic ispod sebe. Tu razmenujemo i par reci sa tipom koji vozi potpuno posebno vozilo, Transalp prikolicar-enduro.
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Kako je dan vec dobro odmakao, sto se penjemo vise postaje sve hladnije. Na vrhu je bilo svega nekoliko stepeni. Prilicno smo se smzli prilikom penjanja, tako da smo zadrzavanje sveli na svega par minuta, uprkos tome sto je prevoj veoma lep.
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Silazak je ponovo podrazumevao smrzavanje. Kada smo se spustili sa prevoja, zastali smo na jednom osuncanom prosirenju da se malo zagrejemo.
Planirali smo da se odvezemo do mesta Bressanone (Brixen), gde bi nam sutra bila polazna tacka za nove prevoje. Tu smo planirali da se snabdemo namirnicama i da nadjemo smestaj. Potraga za smestajem se prilicno oduzila, tako da je vec uveliko pao mrak. Smestaja jednostavno nije bilo ili je bio neprimereno skup. Posle uzaludne pretrage po gradu i okolnim brdima, izlazimo na magistralu i nalazimo kamiondzijsku kafanu sa smestajem, koju oni u prospektu predstavljaju i kao bikersku, pa tu resavamo smestaj (120€ B&B/ 3 osobe).
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Doktore srce moje, nemoj sad da ¹trajkuje¹, jooo¹... ;D :-*
Naredno jutro sam se probudio vrlo rano i malo sam gledao sa terase. Izgleda i da je pogled bio ukljucen u cenu.
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Krecemo jednim malim ali veoma zivopisnim prevojem, Wurzjoch (Passo delle Erbe). Put je veoma uzak, jednim delom u senci. Kako je bilo jos uvek jutro, osecala se pricna hladnoca, narocito kako smo se priblizavali vrhu. Na delu puta u senci, sa strane je bilo snega koji je padao prethodnih dana.
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Silazak na drugu stranu je otvorio nove poglede. Predeli su izgledali fantasticno okupani suncem.
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Prolazak kroz nekoliko bajkovitih sela i krecemo na uspon prema Furkelpass-u (Passo Furcia). Uspon je kratak, ali je spust na drugu stranu dugacak i zanimljiv. prolazimo kroz prdele gde se nalazi jedno od poznatih skijalista Kronplatz.
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Na samom silsaku trazimo mesto da napravimo pauzu. Na jednoj krivini ispred nas se pojavljuje hotel sa odlicnom terasom, pa resismo da tu svratimo, po sistemu "sta kosta da kosta"...medjutim cene su i vise nego regularne.
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Priblizavamo se granici sa Austrijom. Kisa se nesto misli da li da pada ili ne. Za prelazak smo odabrali najmanji od najmanjih puteva, prevoj Staller Sattel (Passo Stalle). U podnozju se nalazi jezero Antholzer See (Lago di Anterselva). Tik iza jezera nailazimo na cudan znak koji oznacava deo sata u kome je dozvoljen prelaz u pravcu prema Austriji. U ovom slucaju je to bilo od 30-45 minuta. Nema potrebe da kazem da smo se ispred znaka zaustavili u 46. minutu. Odmah mi je bilo jasno da treba da cekamo dugo, ali sam to lako i potvrdio u razgovoru da prvim autom koji se zaustavio.
Vracamo se do jezera i na samoj obali pravimo piknik. U ovako divnom okruzenju, vreme prolazi i brze nego sto smo se nadali.
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Put do vrha prevoja se vozi u koloni, svih onih koji su sacekali pravi trenutak. Put je toliko uzak da nema sanse da se obidje automobil. Na vrhu pauza, sve je mokro od kise, i malo snega pored puta.
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Sa Austrijske strane je jedno malo jezerce, Obersee. Sve deluje dosta hladno, kao da smo na vecoj visini.
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Silazak sa ovog prelaska iz Italije u Austriju nas je pocastio voznjom kroz jednu od najlepsih dolina kojima sam se vozio, Defereggen valley. Na zalost, toliko smo se zaneli u uzivanju, tako da nemamo apsolutno ni jednu fotku.
Posle Lienz-a, biramo voznju uskim putem koji spaja planinska sela i sa koga se pruza predivan pogled.
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U jednom trenutku, dolazimo do skretanja na put koji ide paralelno sa italijanskom granicom sve do Villach-a. Predeli kroz koje taj put prolazi, kao i kvalitet samog puta se toliko menjaju svakog trenutka, da je nemoguce ispratiti da li se vozis izmedju pasnjaka sa prelepim pogledom, kroz gustu sumu ili klisurom reke, a kvalitet puta varira od brze magistrale do uzanog lokalnog puteljka sa valovitim asfaltom.
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Dan je vec odmicao, a trebalo je potraziti neki smestaj. Prolazimo kroz Villach, pitamo na nekim mestima, ali nista sto bi nam bilo prihvatljivo. Odlucujemo da idemo do Faaker See-a, jos od posete Harley davidson mitinga znamo da ima dosta smestaja.
Ubrzo nalazimo smestaj (80€ B&B/ 3 osobe) u prelepoj prirodi. Zena koja nas vodi do sobe prica srpski, iz Bosne je i kaze nam da gazda takodje prica dobro srpski jer su mu mnogi radnici iz ex-YU.
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Jutro je svanulo bas kao posle kise. Voda koja se zadrzala u prirodi, isparava pod prvim suncevim zracima. Lagano se pakujemo i idemo prema poslednjem parcetu uzitka na ovoj turi...ruti 69, poznatom bikerskom putu izmedju Lavamunda i Gamlitz-a. Samo pre polaska, svracamo do bikerskih svetilista, Louis-a i Hein Gericke-a.
Put nas vodi kroz lepu prirodu i tipicno austrijski uredjena mesta. Na jednom skretanju pocinje cuvena ruta. Put se penje u planinu sumovitim krajem i kao stvoren je za jurcanje. U nekim delovima je suv i osuncan, a negde u senci je jos uvek vlazan sa po nekom baricom. Nagon za jurcanjem se bori sa razumom, ipak se vlazni delovi pojavljuju iznenada. Zaustavljamo se tek na silasku na ravniji deo puta. Pravimo malo duzu pauzu u cuvenoj bikerskoj kafani "ROUTE 69".
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U medju vremenu smo se culi sa nasim drugarom ®aretom iz Slovenije i dogovor je bio da se sretnemo u blizini Dravograda. Mi smo krenuli namanjim mogucim putem na karti, tako da smo prosli najzabacenijim slovenackim selima.
Kasnije nas je ®are proveo nekim zanimljivim puteljkom od Velenja preko Kamnika do Ljubljane. Nakon obilaska moto-shopova, svratili smo do ®areta kuæi gde smo razgledali njegovu kolekciju auto i moto tablica. Godinama skuplja stare tablice, tako da se tu do sada nakupilo raznih rariteta.
Kasnije su nas ®are i njegova supruga poveli na veceru u kineski restoran u Grosuplju. Kinezi drze mali hotel/restoran i tu smo uzeli sobu po povlascenoj tarifi, bez fiskalnog racuna (60€/soba za 3 osobe).
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Poslednje jutro na turi. ®are nam priredjuje dorucak kod njega kuci. Posle toga odlazak do jos par moto-shopova i u trzni centar da se kupe pokloni za zene i decu. Krecemo tek malo posle podneva. Drzimo solidan tempo. U jednom trenutku, Aleksa se prijavljuje da ima problema sa motorom. U pitanju je previse istegljen lanac. Novi lanac i lancanici koji su kupljeni u Louis-u, uredno su zapakovani u koferu. Na jednom parkingu u Hrvatskoj dotezemo lanac do maksimuma i dosta laksim tempom nastavljamo dalje. Vec je dosta kasno i pitanje je da li cemo do ponoci stici u Kraljevo. Negde pred Beogradom se razvajamo i Glodjo i ja nastavljamo brzim tempom prema kuci. Postaje vec prilicno hladno, a od Kragujevca do kuce smo se zaledili. Konacno kod kuce posle 3300km.
Tura je bila fenomenalna. Uzivali smo u svakom trenutku. Vreme nas je posluzilo odlicno, iako smo u nekoliko navrata bili blizu da nas kisa ozbiljno opere.
Obzirom da skoro nista nismo organizovali, i da smo posli na turu tek tako da se provozamo, ispalo je bolje nego sto smo se nadali.
Toscana je mali raj i svakako zasluzuje ozbiljnije istrazivanje, posveceno, a ne u prolazu. Obavezno cu se vratiti, prvom prilikom.
Alpi/Dolomiti su infekcija koja traje. Ovo mi je cetvrti put i sada smo se trudili da malo zagrebemo ispod povrsine. Poznati prevoji su vec odavno odvozani, pa smo se sad provozali onim manje poznatim, ali ne i manje vrednim.
Par detalja koje sam primetio u Italiji...wifi je u Italiji pod odredjenim animozitetom, nema ga besplatno i neograniceno nigde. Svako iz ekipe mora da trazi pass za sebe i najcesce je vremenski ogranicen, nekada i samo 5 min. U Austriji je kao i kod nas, dobijes sifru i cepaj.
Pizza je u Italiji pojeftinila...ranijih godina, cene su se kretale uglavnom od 8-13e, ovoga puta, klopali smo pizzu na 4 mesta u 4 razlicita grada (San Gimignano, Terme Montecatini, Modena, Lago di Garda) i svuda su sve pizze u cenovniku bile 6,5-7,5€. Ili smo samo imali srece.
Uglavnom, raj za oci, melem za dusu!
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Prvom prilikom, obeæavam sebi...;D :-* [cheers]